93 dodge what kind of turbo should I run
#1
#4
Still not much info. You want it to be reliable? How much you willing to spend? You need to get some basics taken care of first like gauges and fuel supply. Then do your basic mods. Full power screw, timing bump, maybe an HX40 and see where you sit. Also ditch the 2500 spring for a 3200.... Learn how to mod yoru truck and how it responds to modifications.
When you really feel the need for speed I love the 435's and HX40 based turbo I'm running now. Its alot smaller set-up then what my old truck had but it's enough to put my *** in the seat.
When you really feel the need for speed I love the 435's and HX40 based turbo I'm running now. Its alot smaller set-up then what my old truck had but it's enough to put my *** in the seat.
Last edited by RSWORDS; 09-05-2011 at 06:17 PM.
#6
for your fuel screw a.k.a **** off screw turn it in for more out for less fuel. because of the year of your truck im not 100% shure but you might not get much of a defference out of that because they switched to smaller injectors in 1991 in witch case do bigger injectors first then you will see a huge differnce by turning **** off screw and full power screw definatly do the gov. spring and a 435 is what i would recomend also try looking on dppi.com or thuroghbread diesel or any diesel performance site
#8
Don't forget to upgrade your clutch or do some work to the auto because power don't chit if you can't get it to the ground or the truck is sitting due to a bad tranny.
My recomendations (in order I'd do them) gauges, fuel supply, mild pump mods, tranny work to fit your goals, major pump mods, turbo/injectors/head studs.
My recomendations (in order I'd do them) gauges, fuel supply, mild pump mods, tranny work to fit your goals, major pump mods, turbo/injectors/head studs.
#9
#10
You really dont even have to hook up the VGT part if you dont want to. It is a very small range of adjustment actually needed without the exhaust brake function. Set it almost all the way open and it will just be a little laggy. I have a double arm setup that makes the vanes open with no throttle or boost, close with throttle input, and re open as boost is built or throttle is released. I derived this control method from extensive testing with a simple lever. Found the only time you want the vanes shut (still 20% open if you arent using the EB section of the stroke)is heavy throttle w/no boost, then as soon as it lights you want it open to reduce exhaust bp resulting in more power. If you leave the vanes closed it boosts a ton but no power because the exhaust is choked out. It will also whisltle like crazy and just restrict the motor in general if you dont have the vanes open while cruising w/o load. drive pressure is not a concern with the VEpump /5.9 combo - not enough rpms or cuibic inches. . My boost is usually more than drive. (it is possible research it). Optimum mileage is with vanes open completely. I see 0-2 psi cruising this way. max boost is 50 but completely useless cause the vanes have to be closed a little on mine to do that and its more powerful with vanes wide open over 30psi . this floats at about 35-40 depending on length of run.
Last edited by 6btDakota; 09-30-2011 at 01:08 PM.