just an update of my build, with more pump tuning i am now able to hit 35 psi again (almost smokeless) and 1400 on the egt's (i am out of cold air), only mods are a built 12 mm ve, and a gear change from 3.07's to 4.10's. the top speed from that has dropped to 81.4 mph but the gain in acceleration is well worth it. the truck hooks up and accelerates extremely hard. rear axle is locked up. stock stall converter and stock 727, stock h1c (i believe they are 52mm turbo's? correct me if i am wrong so i learn something new) stock cross over tube. i just recieved my low stall converter, i am eager to install it along with the manual valve body shift kit and all to help the trans survive till i can order all the small parts to build it. any help on the tranny build is welcome. sun coast claims their kit will handle 500 horse but from what i see in their kit its hard for me to believe. i am going to call PATC transmissions and ask them what they thought. all suggestions are welcome, thank you diesel bombers!!

 

Get billet servo's and accumulator piston. My trans guy said shift kits can demolish the factory component. Sonax has a complete servo kit and I think the accumulator piston was separate. Roughly $250-300 shipped from PATC iirc


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okay, ill get those, but i see in your sig you have a re-program kit. isnt that the same as a shift kit? i just want to make it into a manual valve body so i have control over when it shifts during racing and crawling. what do you think on the bigger drums for more cluthes and steels? and the bolt in sprags? your one of the most helpful people on db for the first gens also, thank you for all the help.

 

Idk about helpful, I'm spend happy so I've turned about every bolt on a first gen . Don't know much about the internals of the 727. I used the trans-go TF-2 kit. I didnt make mine the full manual. It stays in what ever gear I tell it to, always starts in first. Just doesn't drop into gear at whatever speed... Which can be a big uh oh. Don't do the full manual unless you intend to get a shifter with some sort of locking mechanism to prevent that. From what I've read you'll start stressing shafts before you start straining the components. The 727 is pretty robust for what it is, the non lock up converter saves the transmission from being pushed over it's limits. Now don't hold that as truth, you start going above and beyond what it was designed for you're going to break something. If not sooner, it'll be later. Eventually something will fail.


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i am getting a stand alone shifter for it, a gated shifter with reverse lockout and at least one button on it for injectables or a trans brake. so its nhra legal. when i pull or drag with it ill go down on tire size significantly for sure to help get rid of stress on the drivetrain. i wont stage it to the crazy numbers (5 psi is the highest i go right now) you see people doing and will let off at the end of a pull instead of trying for those last three feet. i like keeping my stuff in one piece

 

Look into upgraded axle shafts for the rear, if you plan on getting it to hook the way you talk, with the lower gear ratio and more power from the engine you'll twist axle shafts before anything else. The VE is going to hold your power numbers back significantly.


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more than likely it will get trailored to events and daily driven as a toy. and just tow dirt bikes and such, i say i want it to tow my desert truck but i have a feeling ill just be borrowing the dads 24 valve five speed to tow the desert truck and my first gen around to events that are farther away. idk how streetable it will be with compounds and all. my lifting coach has some mean drag cars that he daily drives all over without issues so i know it can be done.

 

A good set of compounds won't cause any drivability issues. That's the purpose of compounds... You get your quick low end spool while still getting enough volume to get a clean burn in a well tuned truck.


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I'm gonna put this out there.... Take it from someone who has broken just about every part in the 727 you can. From the input to the planatary to the output and everything in between. Save you money and get a lock-up OD tranny. Once you build you 727 you will still not be happy with it. Alos the billet outputs for the diesel 727 4x4 cost about $1,300 and there is only 2 left in the world. Thats not an exageration...

If I had to do it again I would deal with teh 727 and a budget hughes convertor while I built up a billet manual VB 47RH.

Just my opinion and i will say I think I've built the 727 further then most every other 1st gen owner. I could have had a real nice 47RH for what I've put in my 727... And it was still non-OD and non-Lock up...

Here's some of the broken parts from my 727...

Stock output


And teh 300m billet shaft


Stock planatary I stripped the splines out of. Old on Left new on right.



I also broke an input that I don't have pictures of and smokked A Georand convertor....

 

skip the shafts and find a D80. The D70 is aweak *** axle that is barley good enough at stock levels while being abused.