you should deffinetly make a good write up with this. i think is something id like to do. does it just tighten up everything with the steering?

 

makes the steering pretty much bullet proof. the longer drag link evens out some angles increasing durability and strength. basically you index the pitman arm 90* to twist side to side rather than front to back, then the drag link travels from the gear box over to the passenger knuckle. the kits come with arms that bolt onto the top of the knuckle replacing the spring cap. this set up also alters leverage (less binding) its a very popular off road upgrade but gives the truck unsurpassed drivability, stability and control. no more wandering or loose steering. of course new links arent going to do anything if everything else is loose which is why i'm doing a complete kingpin rebuild. basically with any amount of lift, and reasonably larger tires its almost a MUST. they sell cross over only kits which are much cheaper than what i got but i got the cross over and high arm, my tie rod will run over top of my springs getting them up out of harms way if i were rock crawling, just at any rate i did it for the heavier steering. a basic kit will only come with the pitman arm, a single steering arm for the pasenger side with one hole, and the adjustable drag link.

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they printed out the shipping label for my steering linkages the other day, havent gotten a notification about departure yet but my lower kingpin caps were backordered until the 16th...since they have camber caster adjustment they're kind of a specialty thing and have to come straight from the manufacturer. i was quite suprised to see that summit had them i should be able to go over 55 mph with out a death grip on the steering wheel after im done hahaha

 

You remove the factory plate all together and the box goes to the 2wd holes.

A brace frame to frame wont work as well, triangulation is your friend. before the brace the bottom of the shaft of the steering box moved about 1/4" left to right before the wheels really started turning. Brace got rid of all of it.

 

If you're on a tight budget and can weld, use a $20 mounting bracket (holes in the right spots), a little triangular piece of scrap plate, and new, longer bolts to fab one up:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_119.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_120.jpg

My truck has always steered pretty nice since I installed a drop pitman to account for the lift.

 

Lol, I'll just make my own so you see what I had in mind, triangulation is being used. I didn't have any luck with a drop pitman, so I got a block to raise the steering arm, then had to get an adjustable drag link... Less than 100 miles on it if anyone wants it when i'm done .

 

My stocker's coming up on 100,000 miles, still tight far as I can tell. But I'm sure it ain't gonna last forever.

Let me know how much for that adjustable one you don't want any more.

 

let me make sure i can get it out with out dammage before i go sellin ya something. no one wants to buy a dead horse. its a skyjacker, i think it was 230 brand new. i'll PM you a more reasonable used price.

 

thanks for the info. haha ya it would be nice to go over 55 without the death grip. what are the king pins? are they those bearings you have in the picture?

 

The bearings go in the bottom of the steering knuckle and supports the majority of the vehicle weight, the lower kingpin itself is made into the lower cap, the upper kingpins are the black tapered hunks of metal in the same picture as the bearings. They thread into the top of the axle, the tapered bushings ride on the kingpin and the springs keep a constant preloaded on the tapered bushing and the lower bearing.

 

ah ok i gotcha.