ive got a customer with a problem. 1600*f egt., fuel knock. lemme give history. its 2006 2500. guy has a smarty and a tst powermax cr. he installed himself. he then installed an exhaust manifold and a silver bullet 66 wastegated at 40 psi. now he has done this bc he wants to pull the truck. he installed 150hp integrity injector tips and an airdog 2 165. after that he had a horrible fuel knock. that is when i got the truck. he wanted head studs installed and wanted the injectors flow tested. i pulled injectors and found the small round cylinder in tip of injector #3 had fallen out and was jammed between the body and the tip causing tip to not screw down completely. i replaced the injector with a reman unit as per his request. flow tested at local fuel shop, all 6 flowed within 12% of each other at full load. reinstalled truck ran great but would hit 1600* with tst on 7 of 9 and smarty on stock. he was pleased with noise gone and was ready to spend some money. ordered a stage 2 afe filter kit, mosimoto intercooler( bar and plate) for better cooling and flow, stage two water meth kit from snow perf. running 2 .625 jets that progress from 30% at 18 psi to 100% at 32psi. five star convertor and trans kit from ats with copilot and valve body. deep pan and amsoil atf. he then sent cp3 to industrial which was punched 85% over. all was installed hoping for lower egt for a hard pull, except for cp3 which is for injector longevity. after all was installed truck ran great. test drove above 20 miles no noises and tst on 4 would reach 1350 but if water meth was on it never exceeded 1250 on straight water on full throttle pull. informed cust about danger of exceeding 1300* and suggested running smarty on higher setting which would should increase timing, which in my 12v experience would drop egt so should work the same on the cr, but am still unsure if smarty adds timing. cust picked up truck and drove was very happy and paid bill. on his 45 min drive home says truck ran great, until about 5 mins from home began fuel knocking again, im sure he thrashed on it, but what would cause the fuel knock to return on known good units and how can i get egts down? i know there are guys on here running something similar to this with a stock bottom end and arent getting temps like this. so school me. im going home after work to see which cylinder is the culprit and to see if hes melted it down.

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really nobody has anything? the fuel knock he said was actually a busted lash pad on number one rocker. so no biggy there but trying to knock the egts down if any body has a suggestion

 

Get rid of the max stack and run just the smarty. Timing on the pod can be adjusted on any setting but the higher you go in Numbers the more fuel you'll dump. With what he's got he should go with the SSR or wait till the UDC is released! If he's not spooling that turbo up it's gonna run really hot. What does he do with the truck? Hopefully not tow! I see twins in his future!

 

i experimented when i got the truck back it does tick, so i rechecked the lash, it was at 026 exhaust, and 010 intake i left the 010 but brought exhaust down 020, the earlier 24s were at 020 and i just wanted to make sure tick wasnt from excessive lash. he likes the powermax bc he can shift on the fly, but with it on the 5 setting i can rip 1500* in about 4 secs and doesnt pull like i think it should, but if i set it at 0 and put smarty on 1 which is 30 horse and timing it pulls way harder and from zero to about 90 before i hit 1300. with the extra timing it is wicked fast, and if it werent for the laggy 14cm housing i believe it wouldnt get as hot as it does. but it still has a knock/tick so i did a contribution test and found that even after flow testing injectors cyl2 is at 88% where as other five were at 98% or better. im gonna swap 2 and 3 three injectors and see if weak cyl moves if it does im gonna replace injector with a new unit, if it doesnt which i dont think it will im gonna pull the head. im hoping the tick and weak cylinder go hand in hand bc without a glass head i cant see the pistons

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weak cylinder moved so ordered a new unit not reman and gonna swap the tip hoping for the best

 

Well at least you don't have a melted piston....maybe.....

 

in my opinion it could be a slightly melted piston causing the tick. i have also saw a chunk of valve missing on a couple trucks. he is goin have to watch the gauges to keep from getting to hot. i get close to 1800-2000 degs on a sled pull but its not very long. i get worried after 300 ft floating finish.

 

how are you checking cyl contribution? all ive heard bout the cylinder contribution tests i think it always shows two a lil lower.

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and id get rid of the tst for sure, and the smarty, and go with a efi tune myself.

but if efi was out the question, id keep the smarty. make sure it has a pod and u can adjust it on the fly

 

I'm head diesel tech at dealer, check it with our scan tool while hot and running. No it was 88 until I swapped cylinders then 2 went 103 and 3 went 88. But I still wonder about a slight melt. Tried talking into efi but he's worried about his money now. Being at a dealer is good as stock trucks but when you go wicked built i'm at a slight learning curve. Thanks for all yalls help. Ordered parts today

 

When u swapped injectors, u didn't bore scope it?

 

to be 100% honest i dont have to access nor did i know that there is a bore scope that is small enough to fit in the injector port of the head to view the piston, if you know of a vendor that makes one or can direct me in the direction of a company that has one i would greatly appreciate it, bc i really would like to see the inside before pullin the head just to be sure.

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and no normally we show 6 lower but only by about 3 percent bc it dead at the end of the rail which catches any trash and slightly lower cooling capacity but its a really good and reliable test unlike the fords with a 7.3 that ive just recently experienced shows a weak cyl 8 all the time and all others pass even with a dead skip on 2 and cust replaced number 8 twice once with a used injector and once with a new it still failed 8 and passed number 2. ford clams the cmp sensor causes this prob. id trust the chrysler long before id trust the ford contributuion test.test

 

ok. snap on makes a bore scope that fits into the injector hole. diagnosed several with it

and ya id trust a chrysler computer somewhat