You would need some fairly sophisticated measuring equipment to accurately determine that. In retrospect, the only reason I used the 1/2" line on the filter was because it was already onhand laying around leftover in the garage. I will use 1/4" line with no restricter when I do the upgrade to the true 51749 bypass element. The resistance presented by the 51749 and smaller 1/4" line connected to the 1/2" cooler line along with the minimal pressure deltas between the lines will be plenty to keep most of the flow (probably at least 95% would be my guess) going through the stock lines.

Also remember, the filter itself, especially in that location, is doing some cooling of it's own. So considering the slow flow through the filter, strictly from a cooling standpoint there is no drawback, actually better overall fluid cooling. But again, you'd need to hook up some thermometers and spend time taking measurements. Not gonna worry about that. The fluid dynamics and physics of this issue are pretty basic and already well understood.

My stock tranny's been running this setup for 2 years, with about half of that now on the Jr @ SW2.

One thing cherrybus was right about is the maintenance issue being the big killer of these transmissions. This is not a substitute for properly scheduled regular drain and refills, but a way reduce the wear that begins the minute you start the truck right AFTER a fluid change. Clutch material and other debris is always shedding and building up in the trans. The stock filters run around a 200-300um efficiency. Enough of that stuff will start to gum up valves and deteriorate seals pretty quickly. I just prefer to keep as much of it trapped in a filter as possible.

 

Anyone running an inline magnetic trans filter. Ford puts these on all thier rebuilt trannys to prevent 2nd failures. I an debating on putting this on my rear tranny return line and calling it a day. Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form

 

That's not a bad idea. They do make a 1/2" version. I use them on the power steering units and my wife's car trans. I just suspect they may be too small to last very long before going into bypass in a truck application. But way better than nothing and a quick, easy install.

 

Found the elements on eBag for $6@ so I decided to go ahead and install the "real" bypass filter as described above. They normally run around $25@ regular price. That is one thing the big auction site is definitely good for: filter bargains. It was going to need a new mount fabbed for the head which took a couple hours of mock-up work and welding, so this became a whole project unto itself. It's tucked in there pretty tight - just barely fits like I knew it would:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_71.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_72.jpg

Holds about 2 1/2 quarts. The head has a 1/16" opening through it, so no restrictor required. True bypass element rated at 5um nominal. The big round donut on the bottom is a super-strong neodymium magnet. Magnefine my ****.

 

To funny I have the same magnet!

 

X2.....and forget the flush.

 

so is anyone going to tell anything more about the check ball!!!!!!!!!

 

What exactly do you want to know?

The check ball is there, along with a seal on the input shaft, to minimize TC drain back when at rest. Its needed because the tendency of a normal person is to fire the engine and jam it into gear without any warm up or circulation time. Given the trans does not circulate fluid in park the TC does not charge until it is out of park so frequently there is a slipping feel to the trans when starting out with the TC only partly charged.

Its a hack to fix something that doesn't need to be fixed because the normal buyer\consumer is a total idiot when it comes to vehicle operations. If they can't turn the key on put it in gear and stand on the accelerator at the same time there is a problem and they throw a fit.

Thirty seconds of idle time in neutral would solve all the problems but some moron would decide to get out of their vehicle and walk away without setting the parking brake and mayhem would result. Of course personal responsibility in non-existent and it WILL be the manufacturers fault. LMAO!!


The check ball is a garbage trap and a flow restrition in the cooler circuit. You can take it out and make no more changes and the trans will work the same and cool better but you need to give it 30 seconds or so in neutral to charge the TC after engine off. To fix the charge in park problem the simple thing is to replace the manual valve with a Sonnax item and it will charge in park.

 

that was my next ??? i wouldn't mind the 30 sec charge time but is there a workable option. i keep hering about the ball getting stuck and it burning up the tranny. could you tell me more about the sonnax part

 

Here is the Sonnax part: Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: Transmission :: 22771-09 :: Part Summary

The ball doesn't really stick as much as it will fill the area with garbage and cut down the flow to the point the cooling system won't work properly.

Its in the top cooler line right under the driver side battery. You can see the short chunk of hose with a union in it that contains the check ball. Remove the union, get the cheap tool to pop the quick connect off the cooler and you can pull the hose out. Drill the housing from the upstream end and you can dig the bal, spring, and screen out.