I have a 2004.5 CTD 4x4 3500 bully dog K&N drop in..
I got new gauges and hooked everything up... EGT on extreme 1500 degrees
I turned it off and set to stock now Not the problem that this post is about
My question is about boost
hits 30 psi for a split second then drops to 24psi
I was thinking adjust it to keep the wastegate closed to make 32psi or its because its the stock turbo and nothing can be done???????
Thanks everyone
Pizzo

 

i dont think you can adjust that wastegate i think it is computer controlled if im wrong someone will chime in

 

Need to turn the boost fooler setting on, if you can on the Bully Dog. If not, need to get a boost fooler.

 

Their isn't a vacuum waistgate ???? I never really got under their to check it out

 

Its a manual WG controlle dby boost. The spring in the WG controller will hold 26 psi of boost then open. The boost is routed to the controller via and electronic switch on the front of the turbo, you can see it from underneath. The WG is pulsed to open when the boost hits a certain point.

Adding a BF will clamp the voltage so the ECU never sees boost high enough to open it, turning off the WG if you can will disable that function electronically, or crip the rubber line you can see from the bootom with a small pair of vice grips and it won't open even if the ECU tells it too. Thats a mechanical boost fooler.

 

I got them brand new MAC tool visegrips let me try that. well i do have a boost gauge to watch the PSI. So i am save in that dept... I Also was thinking would it be better to take that hose off and cap it? or just clamp it shut?




OH little bit about myself i do work on cummins engine in forklifts no emissions and even the 5.9s and 6.7 have mechanical waist gates I though by buying a dodge with a 5.9 or a 6.7 was the same thing... its not the blocks are the same everything else is different... fuel systems,turbo's, exhaust systems, computers....
And when i change my oil I never look at the bottom of turbo I just look to see if the bearing and impellers are ok.. So i never though about looking to see if it had mechanical waist gate

 

Just clamp it, you will want to use it again when I tell you how to disabke the electronic control and use boost elbow to set your boost.

That long black cylinder is the electronic controller, gut it and you can save the $40 dollars or so for a custom plug. Add a boost elbow to the rubber line, a 150 ohm resistor to the electrical connection and you have a mechanical boost controlled WG you can set to your desired opening.

You will need a boost fooler eventually anyway because as soon as you clamp it and have no boost fooling, if the Bully Dog does not fool, you will get an overboost code. The fooler will just clamp the voltage from the MAP and all will be good.


I guess if you crawl around under these things for a living you don't want to on your own. When I got my 3rd gen I spent HOURS under the hood and the dash figuring out the differences between the gen1 and gen3. My wife thought I had a girl stashed in there I spent so much time with it.

 

My plans are later in life to add a turbo or two possibly Aurora. But i have to get back to work since i've been laid off since march...
But that is weird that if the turbo is designed to use 32psi why would the computer tell the waist gate to open at 30psi and drop to 24 psi in a split second and not give me full turbo...ARRRR damn you computers...
Any hoot I am just going to clamp it for now see what happens.. And no Bully dog Don't fool it I was looking in the directions and nothing.. pulled the programmer out and looked to see if their was a option to and nothing.. So when I have upgraded my Turbo will it have this stupid computer controller on it? or will it be a mechanical? Also how will i keep the light off if its a mechanical? Do what you said about the resistor?

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Also more products I buy this bully dog is getting out numbered with all the quadzilla products Rail and fuel pressure gauge, boost fool r.... Bully dog dont offer anything like this untill you buy a PMT that is well over 1000.00
what a joke

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one more thing how much PSI before the head blows off... 45 psi???? I just wanted to make sure I can stop it before it gets to that point.. sure it wont happen with a stock turbo but NEVER KNOW if something goes BAD

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You got the autosuck button installed on your truck?

yeah you know that button you push and the fine *** blonde chick comes out and sucks u off

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well that worked I am at 30 psi it is snowing and slippery outside on the roadways so I wont know a final result until the streets are cleared...

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OK I got me a road with no traffic and roads was clear and stomped on it set on tow 32psi hummm not bad set it on extreme jumped right to 38 psi with 1350 degrees on the EGT wooo hooo I got them under control I am happy

 

The boost is limited to around 30 psi for emissions reasons, higher boost pressures lead to higher cylinder pressures which cause more NOX emissions, NOX is the EPA's bugaboo.

The stock turbo is good to 40-45 psi without stressig it too much. You have to throw a LOT of fuel at it to get over that and then things start getting toasty in the EGT department.

If you haven't got a code or CEL light yet the BullyDog has probably remapped the boost table so you won't get one until you go over 45 psi.

The stock CR head gasket is pretty good, when you consistently start passing 55 psi then you need to worry about a better gasket and head studs. You have other problems before that though, at 50 psi the stock springs have been known to let pistons and valves meet. If you can keep your temps under control, less than 1500 degrees, you can run the turbo and HG to 45 psi with pretty good results. The 04.5 plus engines are good to 1450 degrees, leastways thats what Cummins tested them at they say they wil take whatever the stock tune will do. What will get you in trouble though is too much timing in this engine design. The pistons and rings will suffer if you push the timing and you won't see the EGT's you think would cause it.

Thats for big power, you can use that stocker in a twins setup and have a solid 500-550 hp truck that spools quick and runs clean with a much smaller investment that a full blown set of twins. You twins setup will have a mechanical WG and you can set it. The electricla connector will need a resistor that you can but from the turbo makes, or, make your own for a lot less.

Glad you like the results, just keep the boost at or under 40 psi and it should treat you well. I have been hitting 40 psi frequently for almost 100k and so far no problems.

I need an autosuck button , but, would settle for getting the wife off my back and onto hers, if you know what I mean.

Ok, better quit going down this path or we will get

Cheers

 

I got on it again and its closer to 40 psi now then before I thought it was 38 psi but I was mistaken.

Bully dog does remap the sensor I did find that out. So no CEL is on... I also did some changing on the bully dog and turned off the low end torque to HIGH low end torque and played around to get the higher PSI EGT is lower for some reason not sure why it would do that..
I cant leave it on the setting that i have now because i have a stock trans and trash it then NO TRUCK TO DRIVE...
But i LIKE the results thanks