That should get some attention. I admit I am relatively new to turbos and even newer to diesels, but the concept is the same as far as I can tell. And no need for the lemming nutswingers who like to give answers indicating that price equals quality. The brand i mention here is proven reliable on cars running low 8's.

Anybody wanna help me understand why people are buying $1800+ turbos when you can buy a good Master Power turbo for $600, then add wastegate and blow-off valve and still have money left over?

Is there something different you're getting for all that extra money that I'm missing?

A turbo for a diesel is still just a turbo as far as I can tell. Maybe I'm missing something. Is it a matter of limitations on flange options?

Not that the companies are charging too much. I just want to know why people are buying them when there are cheaper priced but equally reliable brands.

Are people just unsure how a turbo works so they want to buy the internally wastegated, stock fit turbos?

 

as far as i now a turbo is a turbo no matter how much you pay for it. why they paid so much for one mybe because they think it is made better than another band. on some case your only paying for the name.

 

Probably has something to do with temps and boost. My turbo runs about 48 PSI and I see EGT's around 1400 F while pulling for miles up 7% grades. It has a 62mm compressor wheel and a 71mm exhaust turbine wheel with a 13cm stainless, dual grooved and ported exhaust housing. Show me a turbo with the same quality and features for $1800 and then you may grab some attention.

BTW, BOV's don't work as we have no throttles. There is one electronic BOV that BD sells but it is around $700 and doesn't really work all that great.

Good luck in your quest.

 

 

And that BOV issue is one of the points I was thinking about. Cool. Less to buy. Seems like laziness that keeps people buying overpriced turbos. Agreed?

It's a little hard to match up what works since it seems diesel guys use a lingo that others don't use. Most use just a mm measurement and an a/r when discussing turbos. Wonder why that is also.

 

I don't think it's laziness really but more of a proven method that works so don't try to fix what ain't broke. I went through three turbos with a lot fo tuning before I was happy with my results. It seemed easy at first but once I figured out I wanted to tug 10k on the weekends and then have a driveable truck during the week where I could embarass the usual suspect running dads truck or Camaro that I learned it wasn't a one shoe fits all deal. I think we use the actual measurements of each function more because of high boost and the high drive pressures associated with 17.5:1 and higher compression ratios and no throttle plate for over speed or over boost protection. Many combos exist out there in the diesel world. You can't just add litres or square area to the equation and come up with something that works. Having said that, many have fitted Garrets or other Air Research turbos to their diesels with ok results. Also, Turbonetics tried to enter the game and had minor success. They were one of the first to admit the diesel world was much different than your average rice or other gas vehicle and they had to change their whole approach when coming up with their line of diesel applications.

I'm sure though that if you came up with a turbo that fits the bill like I described and was a lot cheaper that you would have an instant following overnight.

 

A lot of it stems from the fact that people just don't know what is out there. Myself I have never heard of Power Master before this.

However I spent a lot less than 1800 on my turbo. And its not wastegated.
Most of the turbos the diesel people use are modified diesel turbos off of bigger engines. Thats where most of the schwitzer/BW s300&s400 variants come from. Which really is what most of the companies sell these days.

Most of the time when describing diesel turbos most people boil it down to Compressor inducer size Turbine Inducer size and Turbine A/R or housing size in cm. (If you can figure out how to convert the one from the other be my guest.) When your options are not that many you don't need to know a lot to differentiate between the choices.

General rule of thumb. Most diesel turbos tend to run to smaller trim wheels because we run a lot higher PR than gas motors. A PR of 3.5-4 is pretty common place while many go much higher on single turbos.

For an example, I have a Holset HE431 that uses a 46 trim compressor wheel with a 60mm inducer. Thats the stock charger on a 9 liter cummins engine. I'm not sure what my 62mm s300 runs for trim wheels. I measured it when I had it off but I've misplaced where I put them.

We also don't need the wide fat compressor maps as the rpm range most diesel operate in is fairly limited Maybe 2-3k rpm. They also tend to run tighter A/R ratios on the exhaust because of that.

A lot of it is ignorance as well. People don't know that much about turbos so they just go with the tried and true rather than trying something new and it possible not working.

However I have been looking for a turbo for my bike.

 

x2, alot more boost, alot high temps, alot more abuse! I run Above 60psi throug my II Silver 62... Most gasser turbos also run a large exhaust housing that with our limited RPM's wont light low enough to be of any use...

 

Oh and I'm willing to bet there are peopel on here that have forgotten more about a diesel turbo then most of us will ever know.

 

So, what did you find worked best for your application? I'm looking to upgrade from my factory turbo when I go to 150 horse injectors and what I use my truck for sounds about identical to what you use yours for.