hey fellas, i've been looking over some things too make my truck run as efficiently as possible without breaking the bank. Of course i'd love big injectors with cp3's and turbos and all the good stuff that comes with it, but it isnt practical for me, and my lady has pretty well told me not a chance in h***! so, with that being said, my signature is completely up too date, and i am thinking about

pusher 3.5 intake with the hot/cold tubes
AFE exhaust manifold (any advantage too stainless over ductile?)
glacier intake plenum cover
smarty revo (stack with the ATS or remove it?)
a PATC single clutch billet convertor

i'm not really looking too make sh*t loads of hp like i said, i'd love too see my truck get better fuel mileage, but make relatively reliable power and suprise some of my buddies around town with what a mildly modified (considering) CR can do! Any and all input is appreciated! If you think im throwing money where it doesnt need to go, please say so!

 

Hey how is it going?

You are have to a great start! Number one thing on common rails is good clean fuel, first and foremost and you have that covered with the dual cat filter setup.

I would say yes to the pusher intake, good seamless setup and works.
Manifold I would say spend a extra few bucks for a BD or ATS one as the AFE is decent, yet not the best. They have some casting issues. Stainless over cast will help for spool up and reduce heat.

Smarty I would say the smarty jr or smarty power on demand (depending on your power level) as about 500 hp is max on a stock trans. I see you are doing a single billet clutch torque converter which raises you to about 550, yet than you worry about breaking the stock input shaft. That is the next week link.

You can run the smarty and ats if you want.

It ultimately comes down to how you drive and use the truck on trans and your power level goal than we can move forward.

A 5-600 hp truck on the streets is a animal and will surprise a lot of people!

 

good to know for the manifolds! Stainless it is i forgot too add gauges in there and a coolant bypass, kind of givens i guess. Thats right what i'm aiming for, the truck only tows a small horse trailer 6-7 times a summer and blades/parts for the dump/plow truck on occasion, more of a run around daily driver. I was thinking a transgo kit with billet bits and pieces from PATC, with a torque what about the GDP plenum? not really worth it unless i'm aiming for big hp? Would stacking be safe? i've heard rumours of cracked injector lines and burning up pistons, which im definitely not interested in. Again, thanks for the input and look forward too more!

 

For gauges I would go with the new smarty touch unit, it is all in one and smarty works best on the 03-05 trucks. The fleece coolant bypass is a great kit and does a good job of stabilizing coolant temps as well.

On the trans I would say lets build it to 650 hp as this way gives you a comfort zone. I would do a billet input shaft with those mods. GDP if you have the cash and feel comfortable with it than go right ahead. Stacking I wouldn't do it as you run a big risk for a few extra hp gains. When injectors for these trucks are not cheap I wouldn't chance it. I would save a little longer and go with a good programmer like the smarty and custom tunes with it.

 

didn't know smarty had made such a thing, is there much of a difference in price over a traditional 3 pod pillar? PATC has a level 4 ramzilla kit with billet input and tripple disk torque and all the supporting pieces i've decided on i didnt think the stacking would be worth it, good to know! no solid answer on the GDP? nobody has got one installed or knows if the improved airflow is really there?

 

It is new and came out a few days ago-
MADS Smarty Touch Programmer

The GDP will be totally up to you, the factory grid heater is not restrictive at all.

 

Call me old fashioned, but i just want too see mechanical gauges, since i've already got this thread going, whats the deal with an HE351 swap? kiss the electronic wastegate goodbye, plug it up with an ATS plug, drill and tap the housing for an adjustable boost elbow and slap it together? i've heard that the mechanical actuator off my HE341 can be swapped over to the 351 in place of the electronic one, any truth/ input on this?