So I know theres been alot of talk about p pumping a 24v but I was wondering if instead of using a 24v motor could u use a 12v motor and put in 24v pistons and a 24v head? Ive heard that when converting a 24v to a p pump its hard to get the timing down on the p pump. Ive been throwing the idea around of p pumping my truck and was just wondering if this was possible.

Thanks

Andrew

 

you could do that but you end up with the exact same thing. except you still have the 12v oil pump. timing a ppumped 24v is no different then timing a 12v. altho they do tend to like a bit more timing but thats a tuning thing not an engine thing. you can even use a 12v block to get factory 14mm main bolts and use 04.5-07 common rail pistons to allow more timing then the +-30* that SO bowls will allow for and use a 24v head or cut the intake off and use an 06 common rail head.

thats just a few simple options without getting into anything too serious

 

ok thanks for the info cummin. What all would have to be done to a ppumped 24v to have say around 700-800 horsepower and keep it a daily driver? What p pump should I choose what injectors to run and what kind of head worker should I do to obtain these kinds of numbers or are they way out of the question for a daily driver?

 

to make that power the best pump would be a 180hp pump from a 96-98 auto trans truck aka an 885 pump you could also use a 215hp pump from a 96-98 stick shift truck but you have to be sure you dont get into the retard notchs in the plungers if you slide the plate to far forward. to reach those numbers tho i would highly suggest getting the pump benched because your going to want around 500cc to make that kind of power. stay with .084" lines the big lines retard the timing and draw out the injection event on the 12mm pumps. for injectors i would run 7x14 or 6x16 of your choice but i would get them with .010" lift. for a daily driver i would set the timing in the 24* range. to get to use that kind of power from a mechanical engine as a driver your pretty much going to have to do compound chargers. i would do a S362/68/.80T3 over a S480/88/1.10T6 to keep both flow and spool time up where you need them. to help get all that air into the engine i would do a 181/210 cam. for the head work i would just do valve springs and a mild port job on the exhaust side, big flowing heads are lazy on spool up. even with all of those parts getting 800hp from a 12mm pump isnt going to be easy and would take weeks of tuning time to dial in and a few hours on a chassis dyno to perfect.

 

Hey Cummin could I use a common rail head on a 99 block and would I have to modify it in anyway to make it work? And would the common rail head flow better than the vp head? Thanks again for all the info

 

if your talking a 06-07 5.9 CR head then yes it will flow slightly more, you would have to cut the intake off of it tho because it would hit the pump and couple holes need reworked in the head gasket is all. your vp injectors will bolt right in the CR head and you would use the CR tubes and have scheid make your conversion lines with the correct nut on the head side. in the end i would stick with the vp head because the flow would be nullified if you done a port job on the vp head since the flow difference is marginal.

 

Ok thanks for the info Dustin What all would you recommend parts wise, head work, and so on to do to have a good reliable daily driver with say around 600-750hp instead of the 800hp and still have pretty good fuel mileage still? And what all should be done to a 180hp p pump to get around the 600-750hp goal?

 

do you plan to stay single charger or go with compound chargers?

 

Compounds probably

 

180 pump
rack plug
024 DV
4k gsk
racked barrels
bench balanced
24* timing
airdog 150

084 conversion lines
edm tubes
7x12 injectors with .010" lift

S360/65/14cm aka S300g
S471/88/1.32

181/210 cam
110# valve springs
head studs

should be a towable 650hp