cab lights
#1
02-02-2012, 09:28 PM
cab lights
Got some recon cab lights as a present, and when she ordered them, they did not come with wiring for my specific truck. Instead of sending them back or ordering a $50 kit, i was wondering if anyone has wired them themselves? Im thinking i just need a resistor because they are led lights(what size if there are different ones?) and then i would just go to the wrecking yard and get some license plate plugs cause that is what style of plugs are on these lights. The resistor is my main concern, making sure i get the right one. thanks
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
If anyone has measurements too that would be great!!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
If anyone has measurements too that would be great!!
Last edited by Wirtzy; 02-02-2012 at 09:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
02-02-2012, 10:03 PM
#5
02-03-2012, 12:22 PM
you don't need resistors. I installed LED cab lights on my '01, and hard-wired them in. I grounded the lights up in the roof (behind headliner) and ran a single power wire to the headlight switch, tagging the parking light wire at the switch (yellow/black IIRC).
EDIT: here's my quoted thread about the installation, on another forum.
EDIT: here's my quoted thread about the installation, on another forum.
I 'thought' I had started a thread on Cab Lights before, but the search turned up nada..
At any rate, I installed clear lens/amber LED cab lights this past weekend. My truck did not have them from the factory, so I bought some EuroLite 9-LED ones for a Ford, from eBay for $70 delivered. I liked the Ford-style ones better, so that's what I went with. They arrived in a box, no instructions, no packaging, only an invoice, lights, and packing peanuts...
Since my truck didn't have cab lights, I had to drill..
In a nutshell:
Drop headliner (phillips screws hold visors, pinch clips for overhead console, T20 for pass. side grab-handle, T20 for QC latch trim covers, snaps for a-pillar trim
Tape a straight line from top corners of windshield.
Measured 6" up on each side, and taped another straight line across.
Found Center line, marked it on the tape
From center line, outward, measure 8.5", mark it
From the center line, outward, measure 21". mark it
Once you have these lines marked, measure 5.75" from top edge of windshield, back. This mark will be the forward-most point of the cab light. (this will put the wiring of the Ford-style lights right about over the inner cab-wall hole.
Using the base of one light, make a cardboard template of the light base, and drill holes where wiring and screw holes will be.
Mark center line on template. This will aid you in lining/centering/straightening up the lights and marking the drill locations.
Align center line of template onto each parallel line for the light locations, taking into account the front of the light base on the 5.75" back-set mark.
Drill the three holes required by the lights (2 mounting screws, one wiring hole)
I used an 1/8" (.125) bit for making the #8 screw pilot holes. Also a pilot hole for the wiring, to be drilled out to 3/8", or .375
Apply a dab of clear silicon on each mounting screw hole on the cab, and a blob around the wiring at the light base
Place the light base onto the cab, carefully ensuring that it's aligned properly.
Mount the light bases using (purchased separately) #8 x .75 SS sheet metal screws, and snug them down evenly
Once all are mounted, move inside the truck and wire lights in series.
I grounded them within headliner, and ran 'hot wire' down driver's a-pillar, to headlight switch (remove bezel, 3 phillips screws and slide headlight switch out. Wire is black/yellow.
Check for proper operation.
Reinstall everything if all is good to go!
Pictures to follow.. I didn't take many, but I've got a couple I could add.
At any rate, I installed clear lens/amber LED cab lights this past weekend. My truck did not have them from the factory, so I bought some EuroLite 9-LED ones for a Ford, from eBay for $70 delivered. I liked the Ford-style ones better, so that's what I went with. They arrived in a box, no instructions, no packaging, only an invoice, lights, and packing peanuts...
Since my truck didn't have cab lights, I had to drill..
In a nutshell:
Drop headliner (phillips screws hold visors, pinch clips for overhead console, T20 for pass. side grab-handle, T20 for QC latch trim covers, snaps for a-pillar trim
Tape a straight line from top corners of windshield.
Measured 6" up on each side, and taped another straight line across.
Found Center line, marked it on the tape
From center line, outward, measure 8.5", mark it
From the center line, outward, measure 21". mark it
Once you have these lines marked, measure 5.75" from top edge of windshield, back. This mark will be the forward-most point of the cab light. (this will put the wiring of the Ford-style lights right about over the inner cab-wall hole.
Using the base of one light, make a cardboard template of the light base, and drill holes where wiring and screw holes will be.
Mark center line on template. This will aid you in lining/centering/straightening up the lights and marking the drill locations.
Align center line of template onto each parallel line for the light locations, taking into account the front of the light base on the 5.75" back-set mark.
Drill the three holes required by the lights (2 mounting screws, one wiring hole)
I used an 1/8" (.125) bit for making the #8 screw pilot holes. Also a pilot hole for the wiring, to be drilled out to 3/8", or .375
Apply a dab of clear silicon on each mounting screw hole on the cab, and a blob around the wiring at the light base
Place the light base onto the cab, carefully ensuring that it's aligned properly.
Mount the light bases using (purchased separately) #8 x .75 SS sheet metal screws, and snug them down evenly
Once all are mounted, move inside the truck and wire lights in series.
I grounded them within headliner, and ran 'hot wire' down driver's a-pillar, to headlight switch (remove bezel, 3 phillips screws and slide headlight switch out. Wire is black/yellow.
Check for proper operation.
Reinstall everything if all is good to go!
Pictures to follow.. I didn't take many, but I've got a couple I could add.
Last edited by Rogan; 02-03-2012 at 12:35 PM.
#7
02-03-2012, 01:55 PM
Yes, when wiring a raw resistor into a circuit (usually 2-3VDC capable LEDs), need something like a 470ohm resistor to restrict the input voltage in order to keep from popping the LED. However, the LED cab lights have their own internal circuitry, and are ready to accept 12VDC without issue.
#8
02-16-2012, 03:48 PM
#9
02-16-2012, 04:11 PM
Trust me, you can do it.
