So a while back i bought my arp studs with the intention of putting them in right away. Havent got to it yet, they have just been in my tool box and ive been taking it easy on the truck. But they need to go on. There really isnt any good install tips on the site for them, and i know a ton of people are in need of good info on how to. Just wondering if one of you guys that have done them before could put some info in here.

My plans are to do them one by one without head removal, which a lot of people are interested in doing. I havent done studs on one of these trucks yet however. So basically,

PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG. THE FOLLOWING IS A QUESTION NOT A HOW TO!

If i remove the valve cover, the rockers can be removed without touching the adjustments. Remove the rockers in their entirety to access the bolts. In torque sequence, begin removing and replacing the stock head bolts with an arp stud. Use arp lube. Optionally, bottom tapping is a good idea. Now torque them initially to how many ft/lbs??? Once theyre all in go back around and, in sequence, torque to how many ft/lbs??? Now go back around a third time and go to 125 ft/lbs?? Once thats done, replace the rockers. Is there any machining that needs to be done on the 24v rockers? Does the valve cover need to be machined? Now bring the truck to running temp without driving and torque again? My question on the retorque process is, every time you retorque, the rockers have to be removed again... correct? So that means maybe you should wait until the last retorque to do a valve adjustment? Now ive heard keep it under 30psi for a week and retorque. Drive like you normally would for another week and retorque. Are all these retorques to 125ft/lbs?

Thats basically it correct? I threw in there the most common questions that people ask and cant seem to get solid answers on. Myself and lots of other people would really appreciate if someone could give a nice detailed response to this. Thanks!!

 

1. right but for good measure you should always re adjust its not that hard and beats all hell out of bending stuff
2. correct
3. its not needed but as you say its not a bad idea
4. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS IN/ON THE BOX!
5. correct arp has a odd sequence tighten loosen tighten loosen ect ect read #4
6. correct
7. no
8. read #4

not to sound like an *** but there are instructions and that will awnser all your questions about torque

 

That helps a lot. Thanks man. I like doing all my upgrades by myself, not only does it expand my knowledge about these motors obviously, but it makes me more comfortable seeing the parts go in with my own eyes. Thanks again.

 

Ya did not mean to sound like a (dick) or nothing

 

From what I understand you can change them out one at a time and torque them as you go by the instructions.

 

Is the retorque process (the weeks after) actually needed if there was no gasket replacement? I mean it's not like it needs to re-settle a new gasket. I just doubt the head is gonna settle any afterward. The only thing I can think of is stud stretch over that time that may require a re torque...

 

One of the diesel mags talked about changing the head bolts out with studs without taking the head off and changing the gasket. I'll see if I can find it but I think my students read it to death. Check with [U]Diesel Power [U] or [U]Diesel World [U] online.

Good Luck

 

First, you cannot replace the studs one at a time and torque them one at a time. All bolts need to be removed and new bolts placed in and torqued to sequence or the head WILL WARP. Retorquing in definitly needed whether you replaced the HG or not. The tighter the head, the better chance to not blow the gasket. Stock Cummins gaskets are pretty tough animals and you really start having problems until you blow your first one, than its all down hill from there trust me follow your instructions, follow your torque sequence, and retorque them down. Mine are torqued to 145 lb

 

It WILL WARP, eh? No matter what?

 

There seem to be many, many people that do the studs without head removal and gasket replacement and dont have any problems. Just replaced one at a time. Why will the head warp? If it's evenly torqued, following sequence, and tighter than stock, i just dont see how it would...