I didnt see a thread that outlined this too well and I see alot of guys asking so I figured I would post up a little and add some random pictures.

Parts you will need can vary on how you decide to do this wether it is a kit or used. I went the used route and saved some money.

P7100 injection pump
conversion lines with spacer
Cam position sensor relocator
12 front gear housing
adapter to oil pump
pump gear, washer, and nut
all linkkages
Throttle cable
TV cable for auto
TPS for auto
oil supply line for pump
gaskets
pump support bracket
adapter for fuel inlet to pump
overflow valve for P7100
fuel shutoff solenoid or cable
timing kit
dowel rods to hold tappets
misc nuts and bolts
there is probly more I am missing but that will pretty much get you done right off hand.

You will start by cleaning and tear down. It is more or less like doing a cam swap and putting different parts back on. You will need to remove the the front bumper, intercooler, radiator and AC cooler. Once all that is out of the way you can pull off the belt, fan, dampner, and anything else that is in the way on the front of the engine. Then I moved to the top. You will need to remove the intake horn, valve cover, rocker arms, puchrods, injector lines, and any othe misc things. To pull the VP44 is pretty easy loosen the nut on the gear and pull the gear loose. It will be bolted in to the bracket and to the housing. Next I pulled the tappet cover to gain a view of the tappet gallery. Pull the front cover off of the gear case, insert wooden dowels into tappets and ziptie the tops together to ceek them up. Once you are ready to pull the cam you loosen the thrust plate and remove it. Change the gear housing out for the 12v housing with a new gasket. Make sure and install the cam position sensor relocator first as some trucks will need this to function. Re install the cam with assembly lube and blot it back in. Once that is done you can put your tappet cover back on. There are oil ports in the side of the block you can use to supply the pump. The front ones are a metric pitch I cant remember off hand. If you go towards the back they are 1/8" NPT. After that is done bolt the new pump mount to the block. Install the new pump and bolt it to the housing and mount. It is much easier to set timing now while you have access to everything so I would recommend it. Putting it back together is pretty much as simple as tear down. I would recommend sorthing out a crank case ventalation system when you are doing all this. The 24v was not designed to have oil run off from the pump dump right in front of the breather in the timing cover. I have a vented tappet cover and a vent in the breather. All in all it is not too bad of a swap. I would not recommend it if you would take your truck to have injectors changed but if you have a good collection of tools and are resourceful in gathering things plus a decent mechanical apptitude it is easily accomplished.

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http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v731/ashpete2/P-pump%20swap/?action=view&current=MVI_5721.flvhttp://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v731/ashpete2/P-pump%20swap/?action=view&current=MVI_5738.flv

 

 

 

awesome pics.

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how many days did it take you?

 

Thanks, sorry there are completley out of order but it would have been a mess to straighten them out. If you had all the patrs and a helper or two it could be done in a weekend easy. I think if you worked hard it could be done in a day. It took me a little longer because I wwasnt in too big of a hurry and had to order some things whilke it was apart.

 

great write up

 

wouldn't it be alot easier to just swap in a 12v or what would be the pros and cons of that

 

It dependsw on your idea of pro's and con's. For me it was easier rather than replacing a bunch of other stuff. The 24v head flows what a P&P 12v will stock plus I already had all the supporting stuff done inside this one.