LOW PRESSURE LIGHT
Ok going to be installing one next week and have some questions... as per instuction from the BD web site they say to take the schrader valve off and replace it with the pressure switch.. so not knowing anything about the VP pump am i going to run into any issuse installing this as far as i'm going to assume that fuel will be coming out of the pump and will i have any issues with air getting in and problems on start up :s: thanks guys
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I personally do not like fp lights. Heres why - they operate off of a switch. If you do not have the proper test equipment and know how to check the make/break point of the switch you really do not know the pressure that the light goes on. The setings on pressure switcheds tend to drift over time (get out of calibration). For this reason, I would only run a fp light in conjunction with a fp guage.
As well, the pressure switch installs on your test port. This defeats the whole purpose of having a test port. If you ever want/need to verify that your switch is operating correctly, you have to take the whole tyhing off and install a guage. That being said....you shouldnt really have anything to worry about with the install. You might have to take the stem out of the schraeder valve, but Im not sure on that. |
It's just as simple to fix up a mechanical pressure guage as it is to hook up the light and not much more money. The guage will tell you most everything you need to know to make a diagnosis on fuel problems, the light tell's you nothing except that you have a problem.
Go with a guage and save yourself the trouble of doing it later on down the road. |
but this will serve it's purpose untill i can put a electric fuel pressure guage in correct... Right??
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Electronic fuel guage=$200 plus and sometimes unreliable.
Mechanical Fuel Guage=$30 and always gives accurate readings. Low Pressure Light=Kinda better then nothin, I guess. Just my opinions on it though, others will dissagree. |
Save youre money - electric senders are crap too.
Get yourself a good mechanical guage, a needle valve, some 1/8" DOT brakeline, and you have the most accurate and reliable setup on the market. All for $50 or less. Guys whove been around the diesel game for awhile do it this way. Again, just my opinion. |
Originally Posted by 99 cummins
(Post 37942)
Electronic fuel guage=$200 plus and sometimes unreliable.
Mechanical Fuel Guage=$30 and always gives accurate readings. Low Pressure Light=Kinda better then nothin, I guess. Just my opinions on it though, others will dissagree. |
I'm runnin a completely custom fuel system so your set up won't match mine at all. But all you have to do is tap into the fuel line right there at the fuel filter cannister, you have a test port there. Using Braided Stainless Steel line you can just run it up in between the back of the hood and the cowling so that it will sit right down by the windsheild wiper. I used this method for years until one day I just drilled a hole in the hood directly above the fuel filter and using a rubber grommet attached the guage right there on the hood. You can also run it into the truck, but I won't run a fuel line into my cab. Again, just my personal thing. Most do and it works just fine.
I have an ISSPRO brand guage myself, but the types, styles and brands are limitless. |
Some info for you cameron:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/showth...=fuel+pressure Mechanical Fuel Pressure Guage install: https://www.dieselbombers.com/showth...=fuel+pressure |
Originally Posted by 99 cummins
(Post 37956)
I But all you have to do is tap into the fuel line right there at the fuel filter cannister, you have a test port there.
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