thanks guys for the info but to much to read when your at work and set next to the boss

Ok Dr, you got to show me up again:duh3:. Deffinately come off the filter AREA though, then you don't have to mess with the isolators. There Doc, somthin I know we both agree on, at least about the isolators.

Somebody is gonna come on here and tell me that the guages can't handle diesel fuel so you have to have an isolator. Your right, the guages will go bad with fuel running right to them. I've had my truck since 1999 when it was new and put a guage on it right away. I have had a guage on it for 200,000 miles now and I'm on the second guage right now. To avoid the hassle of an isolator, I think it's worth $30 every hundred thousand or so.

Dissclaimer: Again, just my opinion's. Not the opinions of the site or any represenative there of.

Like you I ran diesel straight to the gauge... NO problems the guage is now 4 years old and doing just fine. I've got a ISOLATOR... Valve that is! :c:

Stock setup...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...s/DSCF1898.JPG

Vulcan Big Line Setup...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...s/DSCF0689.JPG

Parts that are required...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...s/DSCF1804.JPG

Holy cow Mike, i thought you fell off the face of the earth!!!!!



BTW, i have an Autometer electic FP gauge and mine is working JUST fine

For those that are wondering about me like CumminsCrazed I've be out on the Poe Cabin Fire here in Idaho for about 27 days and got home to a mess of failed things...

But here is a link to what I've been doing...
http://www.idahobombersforum.com/vb/...ead.php?t=1173

As for the fuel system the needle valve is the only way to go... You can get them at NAPA for about $8 bucks. It a weatherhead part number WH6820 Rest of its gravy...:U: