LOW PRESSURE LIGHT
 

Ok going to be installing one next week and have some questions... as per instuction from the BD web site they say to take the schrader valve off and replace it with the pressure switch.. so not knowing anything about the VP pump am i going to run into any issuse installing this as far as i'm going to assume that fuel will be coming out of the pump and will i have any issues with air getting in and problems on start up :s: thanks guys

I personally do not like fp lights. Heres why - they operate off of a switch. If you do not have the proper test equipment and know how to check the make/break point of the switch you really do not know the pressure that the light goes on. The setings on pressure switcheds tend to drift over time (get out of calibration). For this reason, I would only run a fp light in conjunction with a fp guage.

As well, the pressure switch installs on your test port. This defeats the whole purpose of having a test port. If you ever want/need to verify that your switch is operating correctly, you have to take the whole tyhing off and install a guage.

That being said....you shouldnt really have anything to worry about with the install. You might have to take the stem out of the schraeder valve, but Im not sure on that.

It's just as simple to fix up a mechanical pressure guage as it is to hook up the light and not much more money. The guage will tell you most everything you need to know to make a diagnosis on fuel problems, the light tell's you nothing except that you have a problem.

Go with a guage and save yourself the trouble of doing it later on down the road.

but this will serve it's purpose untill i can put a electric fuel pressure guage in correct... Right??

Electronic fuel guage=$200 plus and sometimes unreliable.
Mechanical Fuel Guage=$30 and always gives accurate readings.
Low Pressure Light=Kinda better then nothin, I guess.

Just my opinions on it though, others will dissagree.

Save youre money - electric senders are crap too.

Get yourself a good mechanical guage, a needle valve, some 1/8" DOT brakeline, and you have the most accurate and reliable setup on the market. All for $50 or less. Guys whove been around the diesel game for awhile do it this way. Again, just my opinion.

what gauge are you running... and if your running a mechanical how are you running it

I'm runnin a completely custom fuel system so your set up won't match mine at all. But all you have to do is tap into the fuel line right there at the fuel filter cannister, you have a test port there. Using Braided Stainless Steel line you can just run it up in between the back of the hood and the cowling so that it will sit right down by the windsheild wiper. I used this method for years until one day I just drilled a hole in the hood directly above the fuel filter and using a rubber grommet attached the guage right there on the hood. You can also run it into the truck, but I won't run a fuel line into my cab. Again, just my personal thing. Most do and it works just fine.

I have an ISSPRO brand guage myself, but the types, styles and brands are limitless.

Some info for you cameron:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/showth...=fuel+pressure

Mechanical Fuel Pressure Guage install:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/showth...=fuel+pressure

Not exactly on an 01. You need to sample right at the test port on the VP-44 or on the fuel filter outlet. Both scenarios are in the link I posted.

thanks guys for the info but to much to read when your at work and set next to the boss

Ok Dr, you got to show me up again:duh3:. Deffinately come off the filter AREA though, then you don't have to mess with the isolators. There Doc, somthin I know we both agree on, at least about the isolators.

Somebody is gonna come on here and tell me that the guages can't handle diesel fuel so you have to have an isolator. Your right, the guages will go bad with fuel running right to them. I've had my truck since 1999 when it was new and put a guage on it right away. I have had a guage on it for 200,000 miles now and I'm on the second guage right now. To avoid the hassle of an isolator, I think it's worth $30 every hundred thousand or so.

Dissclaimer: Again, just my opinion's. Not the opinions of the site or any represenative there of.

Like you I ran diesel straight to the gauge... NO problems the guage is now 4 years old and doing just fine. I've got a ISOLATOR... Valve that is! :c:

Stock setup...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...s/DSCF1898.JPG

Vulcan Big Line Setup...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...s/DSCF0689.JPG

Parts that are required...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...s/DSCF1804.JPG

Holy cow Mike, i thought you fell off the face of the earth!!!!!



BTW, i have an Autometer electic FP gauge and mine is working JUST fine

For those that are wondering about me like CumminsCrazed I've be out on the Poe Cabin Fire here in Idaho for about 27 days and got home to a mess of failed things...

But here is a link to what I've been doing...
http://www.idahobombersforum.com/vb/...ead.php?t=1173

As for the fuel system the needle valve is the only way to go... You can get them at NAPA for about $8 bucks. It a weatherhead part number WH6820 Rest of its gravy...:U: