Make sure that fuel pressure gauge is mounted where you can see it at all times also and not hidden under the hood someplace.

was going to mount in the cab somewhere when I get it but now i still have issues. Went to drive the truck tonight and it started up and stalled. I tried 2 more times before stoping trying not to do any more damage. Checked lift pump trigger wire w/ KOEO and had nine volts and with Engine cranking it went up to 10.5-11 volts. Tried to bleed injectors but couldn't get fuel to come out of them? :argh: This truck is being a major pain in the:moon:.Any advise???

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you can't get any fuel at the injectors and you haven't pulled any fuel lines apart lately get ready to break the wallet out. Your lift pump has died someplace along the way and with no fuel pressure gauge you had no way of knowing and now you Injector pump has shot craps.

Find a local injection shop, pull the pump and let them bench test it to be sure. Should be around $75 to have it done.

Thank god its not all coming out of my wallet. The dealer I bought the truck from is still responsible for the truck,( In warranty). If the lift pump shit out before i got it or it went on me when she ran out of fuel it's not my problem. It just sucks that I lose my truck for the time being. He is picking the truck up toorrow.

Based on what your issues are, here's how I read it.

You have 9 volts with key on. Completely normal voltage for an engine that is not running. The factory ECM programming reduces voltage an pressure for startup.

11ish volts cranking is also normal. Since you have 12-13 or so engine off, it stands to reason the voltage will drop upon cranking. This voltage will be restored upon startup.

It is VERY common for guys to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank with factory components! The sender goes bad on the module and that's it. Some models have spots where are can enter he system, but if you are out of fuel at 1/4 tank with a stock system, the float assembly is garbage.

If your pump will NOT fill the filter housing, the lift pump is shot. Or you are sucking air. There is nothing in between. With a full tank and still not filling the filter, it's the pump. The factory pump can fail in a multitude of ways while still making noise. The rotor can separate from the shaft and the bypass can stick open. Either case, it's junk. An upgraded lift pump should be a top priority.

Until you have good lift pump pressure, the VP is gonna be starved. Is it shot? Maybe, maybe not. Gotta fix one thing to diagnose the other.

If the dealer installs a new lift pump under warranty they will most likely install the in tank pump and module. Don't freak out. This is a better module design that what you have now. But politely ask the dealer for your old module back. It can be further modified (upgraded with a DrawStraw I) for a buddy, ect and then you can rotate modules back and forth.

If you do get the in tank pump, you will still want a better lift pump for that truck. You will also need a DrawStraw V, but it'll be a great fix once it's done.

Obviously, you need a fuel pressure gauge at a bare minimum!

And after you fix this, there's tons of other stuff to spend you money on that will give you years of trouble free performance and miles of smiles.

Dave

Thanks for all the great info and all the help everyone has given. I will be in constant contact with the dealer finding out whats going on till I get my truck back. When I do I WILL be adding a fuel pressure gauge at the least.....for now. When I start upgrades i will be asking for input and opinions on whats the best products. For now what is better for a fuel pressure gauge, mechanical or electric?:humm:

Just like every subject - right or wrong, opinions will vary. A mechanical guage will cost you 1/4th the price of an electric one and will last longer. You can do a Mechanical FP guage for under $60.

Another question for you guys on the truck. I put a temporary fuel gauge on my truck last night,( one of my old refrigeration gauges from work ), and i'm getting 20lbs. from the lift pump. Is that good enough? Could a injection lose prime like that? Can I test the signal from the computer to the injection pump or is that pointless?

a stock lift pump cant push 20 psi

What's a stock lift pump good for DM?