fuel issues
 

Looking for any extra help. My 2002 24v shut off on me today and left me stranded:argh:. Long story short, I only have 9 volts to the lift pump, I tried to run 12 volts direct to the pump and it runs but won't fill up the filter housing. I went over everything w/ my cousin and he thinks it's the lift pump. I'm just out for another opinion to make sure. This truck is new to me and the dealer will owe me $$$ for the fix.:bat:

Well, you might be able to talk them into putting in a new injection pump, which might be in trouble anyways if the lift pump hasnt been running. If you can get them to replace the injection pump, it would save you a few bucks down the road

If your testing this at the trigger wire and only gettin 9V you have a computer problem first and foremost, you may in addition to that have and LP problem and if it has had this problem long you very well may have IP problems to boot.:ouch:

Is the only way to test the computer to drop it off at a dealer or can any scanner find :ouch:the issue

In most cases pretty much any ODBII scanner will read codes. Most auto parts places will scan your truck for free, like Auto Zone and such. You may start there but if you took this 9V reading at the trigger wire then your talkin either a bad ground that is not letting it feed juice right or a bad computer and a bad computer is somethin you either have to buy a new one or let the dealer try to re-flash the old one and see if it fixes the problem.

Just to be sure were coverin the bases here though. You unplugged the Lift pump at the trigger wire, bump the starter and your only reading 9V. Don't start the truck just kick the starter over real quick. This should send juice to the trigger wire for 20-40 seconds.

Thanks to all that replied, just got the truck running, I feel like a dumb:moon:. My fuel gauge read 1/4 tank but it was not picking up fuel:argh:. I dumped in 5 gallons and fired her up:yeah:. I didn't know dodges had issues w/ fuel gauges, has anyone else had a problem?

not normally with stock pick up tubes .

in the future (and if your truck has fuel in it) if your Lift pump runs and does not fill up your filter canister than your lift pump is dead , if your lift pump dies and you dont know it the injection pump will pull its own fuel and end up destroying its self .

get a fuel pressure gauge on your truck !

I've been planning on getting a fuel pressure gauge, i just picked the truck up 2 weeks ago and its my first diesel. I'll be ordering that gauge tonight, I made my mind up last night:humm:.

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Any other critical gauges I should pick up at the same time???

no save your $$ and get a nice torque converter and TFOD shift kit in your VB next

Your going to have to fill out your signature to tell us what has been done to your truck.. deffinetly some sort of fuel pressure gauge, possible boost and a pyrometer gauges down the road. :U:

Make sure that fuel pressure gauge is mounted where you can see it at all times also and not hidden under the hood someplace.

was going to mount in the cab somewhere when I get it but now i still have issues. Went to drive the truck tonight and it started up and stalled. I tried 2 more times before stoping trying not to do any more damage. Checked lift pump trigger wire w/ KOEO and had nine volts and with Engine cranking it went up to 10.5-11 volts. Tried to bleed injectors but couldn't get fuel to come out of them? :argh: This truck is being a major pain in the:moon:.Any advise???

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you can't get any fuel at the injectors and you haven't pulled any fuel lines apart lately get ready to break the wallet out. Your lift pump has died someplace along the way and with no fuel pressure gauge you had no way of knowing and now you Injector pump has shot craps.

Find a local injection shop, pull the pump and let them bench test it to be sure. Should be around $75 to have it done.

Thank god its not all coming out of my wallet. The dealer I bought the truck from is still responsible for the truck,( In warranty). If the lift pump shit out before i got it or it went on me when she ran out of fuel it's not my problem. It just sucks that I lose my truck for the time being. He is picking the truck up toorrow.

Based on what your issues are, here's how I read it.

You have 9 volts with key on. Completely normal voltage for an engine that is not running. The factory ECM programming reduces voltage an pressure for startup.

11ish volts cranking is also normal. Since you have 12-13 or so engine off, it stands to reason the voltage will drop upon cranking. This voltage will be restored upon startup.

It is VERY common for guys to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank with factory components! The sender goes bad on the module and that's it. Some models have spots where are can enter he system, but if you are out of fuel at 1/4 tank with a stock system, the float assembly is garbage.

If your pump will NOT fill the filter housing, the lift pump is shot. Or you are sucking air. There is nothing in between. With a full tank and still not filling the filter, it's the pump. The factory pump can fail in a multitude of ways while still making noise. The rotor can separate from the shaft and the bypass can stick open. Either case, it's junk. An upgraded lift pump should be a top priority.

Until you have good lift pump pressure, the VP is gonna be starved. Is it shot? Maybe, maybe not. Gotta fix one thing to diagnose the other.

If the dealer installs a new lift pump under warranty they will most likely install the in tank pump and module. Don't freak out. This is a better module design that what you have now. But politely ask the dealer for your old module back. It can be further modified (upgraded with a DrawStraw I) for a buddy, ect and then you can rotate modules back and forth.

If you do get the in tank pump, you will still want a better lift pump for that truck. You will also need a DrawStraw V, but it'll be a great fix once it's done.

Obviously, you need a fuel pressure gauge at a bare minimum!

And after you fix this, there's tons of other stuff to spend you money on that will give you years of trouble free performance and miles of smiles.

Dave

Thanks for all the great info and all the help everyone has given. I will be in constant contact with the dealer finding out whats going on till I get my truck back. When I do I WILL be adding a fuel pressure gauge at the least.....for now. When I start upgrades i will be asking for input and opinions on whats the best products. For now what is better for a fuel pressure gauge, mechanical or electric?:humm:

Just like every subject - right or wrong, opinions will vary. A mechanical guage will cost you 1/4th the price of an electric one and will last longer. You can do a Mechanical FP guage for under $60.

Another question for you guys on the truck. I put a temporary fuel gauge on my truck last night,( one of my old refrigeration gauges from work ), and i'm getting 20lbs. from the lift pump. Is that good enough? Could a injection lose prime like that? Can I test the signal from the computer to the injection pump or is that pointless?

a stock lift pump cant push 20 psi

What's a stock lift pump good for DM?

They typically run about 8 psi but with some manipulation they could push 20psi, maybe but only at the idle. Soon as you touch that go pedal it's gonna fall on it's face. They just can't move the volume of fuel needed to keep these trucks healthy.

I suspect your guage is out of calibration

If I crack the injector lines on the back of the pump and not get fuel from all the lines, is the vp no good. Please bear with me as diesels are still new to me, learning alot from you guys though.
:pals:

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wouldn't doubt gauge is off.

throwing at stray dogs

there 14 psi and 7 psi carter pumps , i have ran both in series and got about 18 PSI

Crack the lines right at the injector (3/4" wrench or 19mm). bB very careful in doing so, as the fuel is several thousand psi. Never get your hands anywhere near the spraying fuel - always use cardboard to check.

When I cracked at the injectors I didn't get a strong blast of fuel, it dribbled out at a low pressure.

you need to check your fuel pressure at the vp44 inlet , if you have fuel there and nothing at the injectors your vp44 is toast

I was checking fuel pressure at the schreader access port on the vp44, where the fuel comes from the bottom of the filter housing. If the vp is n.f.g I'm going to:se:

if you have fuel pressure at your vp44 test port and when you crack your injectors fuel doesnt shoot out then your vp44 is dead

Thanks for all the help guys, I will be calling the dealer back on Monday to tell him the good news.:madd::ouch:

Having it scanned is the first step.

Good Luck.

sucks man ive been there and so have most of the 24V guys on here , This is Why we tell all new 24V guys you must have a Fuel Pressure gauge before you do any other mods ! , the LP dies and you dont know it until the VP44 dies from pulling double time pulling its own fuel

All 24V cummins must have a fuel pressure gauge no exceptions !

:ty:

I have less than 100,000 miles on my 2002 cummins and ive replaced 2 ecm's , 1 injection pump , 4 lift pumps , windshield wiper motor , output shaft sensor , vacuum pump seals

its murphys law with my truck im waiting on my starter contacts to take a dump on me next

I'm ahead a you then, I already replaced my starter contacts and brushes.:madd:

Is this what i have to look forward to or are you guys unlucky:ph:

every vehicle has its flaws , we pretty well have the 2nd gen dodges figured out and theres things you can do to prevent the known issues from occurring

I have the 2001 dodge. I notice on mine, I have the warning light for low fuel pressure, if I floor the truck the light flashes but only when cold out, could this be simply the fact that the diesel fuel is cold and harder to move?

Jim