now i see why we need FP gauges
 

Well, last night i hooked up my FP gauge, and had the enjoyment of learning how to crank injector lines and bleed the system (thanks turbotrent) once i got the truck running i was welcomed by a maximum of 3 PSI on my FP gauge.......now, today i am going to double check the pressure at the VP itself, and if the LP is bad i will more than likely get a cheapo pump from NAPA or similar and get the vulcan relocation kit

It's amazaing what we see with gauges ain't it?
Good luck, maybe you caught it in time. :up:

It's scary how many times I have read on these sites that somebody installs a guage just to find out they are running 0psi. I think Bosch paid Dodge off to not install guages from the factory. These VP44's gotta be their number one cash cow.

well my question is...............why would my lift pump still buzz, not have a P0216 code or feel/have any power loss from the day i bought it. Could it have been bad from he day i bought it last aug?

Could have been bad all along. These trucks will run just fine without the LP just takes it's toll on the VP when you do it. Fuel mileage suffers a little and if your pullin heavy you will feel the power difference.

Not unusuall at all for the LP to still make noise but not be moving any fuel. The internal overflow may be stuck open and fuel is just spinning circles in there. The motor itself is fairly strong in these stock pumps, most of the probelms found are in the overflow or pump mechanism itself.

This is just another great example of why it's so important to get a guage beofre you start having problems.

i got one as soon as money allowed.................now i get to decide whether i want an

A. FASS
B. GDP walbro kit
C. holley blue
D. OEM lift pump with relocation kit

Cheapest Walbro kit Ive seen:

www.wideopendiesel.com

:c::c:

Id have to agree....dont even waste your hard earned $$ with a stocker.


If you do go with a FASS go with the 150. I believe that if you buy the 95, you have to get the filters directly from DPP.

Fass 150 its a good way to go what ever you do dont go stock.

ok so, what would be best, a FASS 150 or a GDP walbro kit

Depends on how much money you wanna spend. $500 plus difference in price between em.


Andrew, here's your chance to throw your link in here.

Get the Wide Open kit; it's cheaper and an excellent product. I've got one on my truck and it's worked flawlessly. The kit includes an adjustable regulator, so you can set your desired fuel pressure. It's made by AFS and is a well thought out kit ... you'll love it!

This is a Walbro kit. Now where's the link.

Dennis, you're getting picky in your old age! :tttt:

http://www.wideopendiesel.com/page8.html :up:

Thought you were just gonna sneak in here in the middle of the night. Like the old lady next door peekin through the curtains, but ya got caught.

I was wonderin when you were gonna show up. I needed the link. I'm gettin ready to keep all my dual pump setup but change the pumps over to the Walbro's. I was waitin for your special site to check out prices. Thanks Buddy O mine.

ok so now its basically down to a walbro kit or a FASS 150.

I neee to know which to go with, i will EVENTUALLY go with BIG HP, im talking cumnspwr range or more. I want to run 11s or 12s in my truck. Thats what my goal is. So basing that off what i want, do i need a walbro or a FASS 150

Either will make the HP. If you want to go the ultimate route you need to look into the RASP. It's a mechanical pump system for these trucks that is completely bullet proof and will make as much HP as the motor can produce.

Whats the difference between the Wide Open Kit and Glacier System? From what I saw the Glacier System has pretty much EVERYTHING needed to change over. Am I right?

They are the same thing, Glacier is just priced with the pump if I remember right and The wide open kit you have to buy the pump additional. They offer it this way for those that want to use a different pump, such as the holley with the kit. So just check out the final cost of what you want between the two shops.

Ok, what you said about the pump being offered with one and not the other was basically what I thought was the difference, just wanted to make sure I understood right. Thanx

If you scroll down the page they have them available there, it just wasn't included in the original price.

someone fill me in on the RASP system...

KO ENGINEERING’S RASP PUMP SYSTEM.

It is simple, there are no parts to wear out and the pump is easy to install.

Mounting brackets for the pump: This is a 2-part system that bolts on to your engine oil pan. It is CNC machined from 6061 aluminium, it is sweet. The drive hub bolts directly on to your harmonic balancer, you don’t have to worry about alignments on the pump because it is already engineered in the two part mounting system. You also do not have to worry about angles. Don’t have to worry about alignment or centering of the drive hub on the harmonic balancer as that is also engineered into the design of the actual drive hub. Just un do the four bolts on your harmonic balancer, bolt on your drive hub and you are ready for the pulleys & belt. At this point you are now ready for the plumbing.

Plumbing: The plumbing can be a little bit of a challenge for the average consumer and I told KO that. Having said that they decided with the many variables / preferences involved with plumbing and the different systems already on various trucks it was not practical to supply a plumbing kit with the pump. They would leave that to the individual installer to customize.

What is the warranty on this system? Fair question.
There really are not any wearable parts on this system other than the belt. There is a 5-year warranty on the system other than the belt. KO suggests you change it every 50,000 miles or carry a spare. When you get your pump kit, it comes with one spare belt.

What happens if a belt breaks? : Actually nothing really happens other than an LED light comes on in the cab of the truck telling you the belt broke. At that point the rasp system automatically switches you back to your electric fuel system via a pressure switch. That is another part of the system that is really sweet. The RASP system runs parallel to whatever electric fuel system you are already running.

What does a parallel fuel system mean?
For those of you unfamiliar with this terminology, what happens is that you actually have 2 fuel systems in your truck? The original electric fuel system you are already running, and the KO RASP system. They run side by side. & linked to each other via a Hobbs pressure switch.

Why is the Hobbs switch significant: Because anytime the pressure drops below 8 PSI the electric fuel pump automatically kicks in.

What kind of pressures does the RASP system run? I have spoken to a lot of people that have been advising KO ENGINEERING on what the pressures should be. The answer from Bosch & Cummins is 14 PSI. You do not want to exceed this for the best life on your VP 44 pump. (a lot of you already know that on the Dodge Rams if you try to run 20 –25 PSI at an idle with the electric fuel pumps, starting the vehicle becomes tough as you would have already hydraulic the VP 44 pump. In turn shortening the life of the VP 44 pump.

Pressure setting on the RASP system: 12-14 PSI. While you can turn it up.

If I turn the pressure up on KO’S RASP fuel pump system against KO Engineering’s advise will it effect the warranty on the pump system? no it will not. (for testing purposes we did turn the pump up to 55 PSI, the only thing we succeeded in doing was destroy the VP 44 pump.)
Electric fuel pumps run higher pressures at an idle to maintain pressures at wide-open throttle. Most of you guys running fuel pressure gauges already know this, as soon as you start stomping on your accelerator you watch the fuel gauge and start panicking if the pressures start to drop.
The R.A.S.P fuel system is the exact opposite. The higher the engine RPMS the more pump volume is available. No more having to worry about getting on the go pedal.

How is the pressure controlled on the R.A.S.P system?
It uses a bypass valve, which is controlled by a spring. Anything above 14 PSI simply gets returned back to the tank.

There are no wearable parts in the bypass system unlike a fuel regulator . It simply uses a spring and a valve.

How does this system affect changing your fuel filter: Changing your fuel filter is childs play, as the KO RASP fuel pump is not involved when you change the fuel filter, your electric fuel pump does all the work, same as always. Whatever procedures you previously used to change your fuel filter prior to installation of the RASP system remains the same. One of the hardest things with the mechanical fuel pump was changing your fuel filter. However with the RASP system running parallel with your electric fuel pump system KO made changing the fuel filter a breeze.

The system is ultra quiet, you don’t hear it compared to the electric fuel pump, which is annoying. The pump itself has straight cut gears so no pump crescents to wear out, no impellers to wear out. No thrust in the system so the body is not going to wear out VS the thrust in the electric fuel pumps causing pump bodies and impellers to wear out. The gears are stainless steel so even if water was run through it, it doesn’t matter.

Some of the test trucks and people we used in the R&D facility you may recognize, as they are known to be punishers on their equipment. Guys like Opie, Idaho CTD, Strick 9.

Is this the best system available for your dodges today? Absolutely without a doubt yes it is. No matter how some may try to slice it and dice it, bottom line is , electric fuel pumps are designed to be gravity fed and they always have thrust, bushings to wear out and the mechanical fuel pump uses the Cummins motor. As long as that motor is cranking over that fuel system is going to deliver.

After all of this I see where the RASP has been copied and improved upon by a new product called the MITUSA. I'm still havin problems finding a vendor though. They make these for Cummins and Duramax. This new version is also supposed to be more competitive in price with the Air Dog and FASS also. So now just to find it.

cool, that sounds awesome.....if you find a link to the MITUSA please send it to me

I'll keep lookin cause I'm gettin ready to rebuild my system again. I'm either goin with dual Walbro's or this mechanical. Just an FYI on the name of this pump. It's not a Japland pump like it sounds.

Made
In
The
U
S
A

ah HA! gotcha good buddy!!!!!

I already posted it above (days ago)....:sen:

Sorry bout that Doc, didn't even notice they were the same place. I thought the company Andrew was always talkin about was called Big Dog, now I see that's just the kit model name.

lol....no prob

so i still cant decide which one i want, but i need to get it narrowed down because i need to order one ASAP, this is my only vehicle to drive and i dont like driving on it knowing i have no FP

You better get some kind of lift pump on there ASAP or you will be buying a shiney new VP-44. If you dont want to buy a new IP - you better park the truck until you get this sorted out. Renting a car for a week is a lot cheaper than a VP-44.

No kidding!

Even if you go to this mechanical pump you are still gonna need an electrical one to. GET A PUMP ON THAT TRUCK. Go to the Auto Zone and buy a little Holley Blue, they're cheap and easy to install.

ok, im planning to buy a FASS system either tonight or tomorrow.....i am planning to get the FASS 150 from Nate. Should i get the FASS 150 95GPH system or the 150GPH system. I am planning to run big HP in the future

Are we talking 700 - 800 hp big?

400-550/600 maybe

95 GPH

oh, whats reqd for the 150GPH or 200 GPH.....will it make a diff if i run the 150 if not needed