upgrading the 01 Ram
#1
upgrading the 01 Ram
Ok, so here is a brief history of what I have done so far to my 2001 Dodge D250 QC LB. It has 3.5 gear ratio and I upped the tires to 265 vs oem 245 and Yes!! I did install the proper speedometer gear as we make and sell speedo gears here.
Ok, list of upgraded parts and work done.
Trans should hold 1200 torque easy, built here at the shop along with our custom built billet low stall converter.
It also has our billet flexplate as well.
Quadzilla Adrenalin BT 2000 software, but its not the V2,,,Yet?? have to flash it I guess.
Fass 150 w/straw and large lines to the VP44.
I run 2 cycle oil in the fuel, 32oz per 35Gal.
Diamond Eye 5" with 4" down pipe and muffle, quieter then I thought, I like it.
DAP +275HP nozzles not installed yet because I just ordered them to put onto the spare set of used injectors I have. Once I have them I will take them to the local turbo shop so they can rebuild them and test them.
Now I need to consider a turbo as the HY35 has to go due to its inability to keep up with the additional fuel and I am sure I will have to upgrade the air filter system too.
So I need some input and suggestions as to what would work good with this set up I have. I have heard the HX35 can go to 40psi but I worry about the heat issues I read about. I then read about twins using my HY35 but WOW, that kit is high dollar.
I keep coming back to the 62/65/14 or even the 12 seeing its an auto trans. maybe even the 62/68/14 seeing I have plenty of fuel, I think????
I am also willing to buy the Hx40 down pipe too as I know I might need it for the bigger turbo I will need. Is there a cheaper alternative to the Phatshaft 62 models? This is the one I keep thinking I need.
I dont have to have my fuel turned up to the max nor will I run a HOT tune all the time. The truck is WAY better in power then it was stock but, I want a lot more.
I want to cap my fuel/tuner to keep my PSI under 40/45 until I get my head studs. Next question, can I change head studs one at a time???
So with this info, what turbo or turbo's would be good? I do tow but its only a 26' fifth wheel and we dont tow it but 30 minutes to our camp anyway and its all flat.
I am looking for a hot truck to make the drive fun and make some cars guys wonder why they lost to this old truck.
Ok, list of upgraded parts and work done.
Trans should hold 1200 torque easy, built here at the shop along with our custom built billet low stall converter.
It also has our billet flexplate as well.
Quadzilla Adrenalin BT 2000 software, but its not the V2,,,Yet?? have to flash it I guess.
Fass 150 w/straw and large lines to the VP44.
I run 2 cycle oil in the fuel, 32oz per 35Gal.
Diamond Eye 5" with 4" down pipe and muffle, quieter then I thought, I like it.
DAP +275HP nozzles not installed yet because I just ordered them to put onto the spare set of used injectors I have. Once I have them I will take them to the local turbo shop so they can rebuild them and test them.
Now I need to consider a turbo as the HY35 has to go due to its inability to keep up with the additional fuel and I am sure I will have to upgrade the air filter system too.
So I need some input and suggestions as to what would work good with this set up I have. I have heard the HX35 can go to 40psi but I worry about the heat issues I read about. I then read about twins using my HY35 but WOW, that kit is high dollar.
I keep coming back to the 62/65/14 or even the 12 seeing its an auto trans. maybe even the 62/68/14 seeing I have plenty of fuel, I think????
I am also willing to buy the Hx40 down pipe too as I know I might need it for the bigger turbo I will need. Is there a cheaper alternative to the Phatshaft 62 models? This is the one I keep thinking I need.
I dont have to have my fuel turned up to the max nor will I run a HOT tune all the time. The truck is WAY better in power then it was stock but, I want a lot more.
I want to cap my fuel/tuner to keep my PSI under 40/45 until I get my head studs. Next question, can I change head studs one at a time???
So with this info, what turbo or turbo's would be good? I do tow but its only a 26' fifth wheel and we dont tow it but 30 minutes to our camp anyway and its all flat.
I am looking for a hot truck to make the drive fun and make some cars guys wonder why they lost to this old truck.
Last edited by AmericanHotRodSolutions; 01-26-2018 at 05:36 PM.
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Anyone got any different advise other then the 62/68/12, this seems to be the most prescribed for my situation. I am no turbo expert but have learned a lot in the last year since starting this project.
I have done a bit of reading and I like the billet scroll idea, I figured a little better strength cant hurt. Most the advice I get is the 62/68/12, 62/68/14, and 63/68/14. What is going to be the differences here? I know the turbo lag but, but how much difference? Does anyone have any examples, I have learned a lot thanks to this site but, I am still hesitant to pull the trigger on one. I DONT want to make a mistake. I really like how the HY35 spools so fast but I dont want to worry about heat at WOT at the same time like I do know. It seems the 62/68/12 is the most recommended. I want to have a fun truck thats going to work good from a dig (to embarrass those muscle car guys from light to light) so this is why I lean toward the 62/68/12 but how much more lag would a 63/38/14 have and would the smaller be asking for temp issues?
It seems these types of turbos are $1100.00-$1400.00 price range, is this good or am I getting hosed?
I will have the updates under valve cover done (studs/springs/push rods) when I install the +275 sac's.
I have done a bit of reading and I like the billet scroll idea, I figured a little better strength cant hurt. Most the advice I get is the 62/68/12, 62/68/14, and 63/68/14. What is going to be the differences here? I know the turbo lag but, but how much difference? Does anyone have any examples, I have learned a lot thanks to this site but, I am still hesitant to pull the trigger on one. I DONT want to make a mistake. I really like how the HY35 spools so fast but I dont want to worry about heat at WOT at the same time like I do know. It seems the 62/68/12 is the most recommended. I want to have a fun truck thats going to work good from a dig (to embarrass those muscle car guys from light to light) so this is why I lean toward the 62/68/12 but how much more lag would a 63/38/14 have and would the smaller be asking for temp issues?
It seems these types of turbos are $1100.00-$1400.00 price range, is this good or am I getting hosed?
I will have the updates under valve cover done (studs/springs/push rods) when I install the +275 sac's.