FYI do not get anything with glowshift on it. Borrow some money for a little bit if you have to. You dont want to have and psi below 10 psi. Keep that lift pump happy would help to run some 2 stoke oil in the fuel also.

 

You want Cheap and High Quality in one shot? Here you go!



Gauge is ISSPro from...
EVA GAUGE Mechanical FUEL Pressure 30 PSI Black

Banjo bolt is from Geno's (~$7 bucks)

Then the air brake line and fittings from a local NAPA store. (~$15 bucks)

Better than any Glowshift and rock solid, good quality, and good looking!

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Actually this is wrong because the VP44 is the source of water hammer pulses... You want the gauge as far as possible from the VP44 to prevent water hammer damage from occurring. I've got a pretty good article about this.

 

[QUOTE=Mopar1973Man;
Actually this is wrong because the VP44 is the source of water hammer pulses... You want the gauge as far as possible from the VP44 to prevent water hammer damage from occurring. I've got a pretty good article about this.

I've always read that you put it at the inlet and use a needle valve to prevent the pressure spikes from damaging the guage. So where do you use the banjo bolt

 

I didn't mean the actual gauge itself I mean that is where you tie into to get fuel pressure.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Correct but since the VP44 is a valve opening and closing the water hammer spikes are the highest at the mouth of the VP44 inlet. So this why you want to tap your gauge away from the VP44 like at the base of the stock fuel filter or way back at you AirDog or simular. Then your water hammer pulse are much less.

That's exactly what I'm talking about. Where the line taps in for pressure should be as far as possible from the VP44 and should NOT be at the VP44. This is why AirDog add a port on the pump for fuel pressure gauge and failure of gauge is much less since the gauge is now over 5-6 feet away from the VP44 and the pulses are reduced.

Like myself mine is the line between the stock filter can and the VP44 and I fight to set the needle valve because of the proximity to the VP44 I'm, only back about 3-4 inches... If I had the extra fund I would change that piece of big line kit and move the gauge tap back to the stock filter can with a tapped JIC elbow.

 

check this out, they seem fairly priced plus they are electronic so you dont have to run fuel line in to the cab.
Fuel Pressure Gauges

 

None of us here like glowshift! You can get a isspro gauge for about the same price. Also electronic isnt always better.

 

Well, I ordered a Glowshift 30 psi electrical on Monday. I plan on putting the sending unit in the Airdog base. We'll see how it goes.

I didn't know the Glowshift gauges had problems. Guess I should've researched a little more.

Thanks to all of you who have posted replies. I've had the truck since '05 but have never been inside it till the VP went out.

 

Electric gauges have a life span of about 1-2 years and the the sensor fails. My Mechanical gauge is over 7 years old and never leaked once in the cab. The whole fuel in the cab thing is blown way out of control. Most people run mechanical oil pressure gauges into the cab and don't ever say a word about it. So you worried about 10-20 PSI of fuel but no one ever says anything about 40-100 PSI of engine oil in the cab?


This is one reason why I highly suggest air brake line which is rated for 600-800 PSI burst strength.