I was given a 2wd auto cummins by my father when he purchased his 2006 cummins dually megacab. this is my first diesel and im fairly handy with a wrench. im putting a 4" exhaust with 6" flow thru muffler on in march and a bhaf at the same time. my understanding is that this engine is fairly simple to get big power out of and im not looking to go huge in the power dept because my budget doesnt allow me to. My only complaint about the truck is that it doesnt have any "get up and go" and with only 160hp i can see why. so my questions are what kinda results should i expect from doing the intake and exhaust? im thinking about upgrading the air horn as well... does that make as big an improvement as is claimed? also how important is the band adjustment on the auto trans? my truck has 253000 and its probably never been done. trans seems to function ok the lockup is hit and miss when its cold outside but does work once the truck comes to temp. what about the fuel plate slid forward? im looking to increase fuel mileage up from 17 and give the ole girl a little more pep in her step. there are 2 06 megacab 24v's and one 07 megacab 6.7 in my family and they all run circles around me in acceleration. sorry to hit you all with so many questions in one post but i need the expert advice u all seem to posses. this is my daily driver and i want to keep it for many years. thank u for any help you can give me to steer me in the right direction

 

Band adjustment is pretty important, with out dropping the pan you'll only be able to adjust one band. make sure your TV cable is adjusted properly too. The 6" is a little overkill. 4" will be plenty. There's a throttle stop on the top of your pump, right below the circular portion of your pump top (the AFC) remove that screw completely, pull your AFC top and rotate the diaphragm 180* that should make your rack pin ride in the deepest portion of the cone. That alone will give you a good bit of pep. Start searching and reading. There's alot you can do, and alot that has already been covered that'd take entirely too long to cover it all. Have fun with it, once you let your engine loose you'll wonder how you ever drove the truck before.


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Wow don't listen to anything I just told you about the pump... Got my forums mixed up


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Do alot reading, everything to make your truck run great is somewhere on these forums. BigBlue has a great write up, I don't know if it's on this forum but it is on competition diesel. He took it from a 20 second truck to a low 12 second truck. If the tranny is tight a shift kit and a torque convertor would be a good starting point. A lot of power in the afc,fuel plate,rack plug, and barrel rack along with fuel pressure. Read,read,read it's all out there. A word of warning, if you do go on CompD don't ask questions being new, they eat there young!

I forgot governor springs and timing make a big difference.

 

Gov springs and timing is a MUST, honestly I'd like to see what a truck equipped with a 4k and 17* with everything else bone stock would run. For the cost; I think that's some of the biggest bang for your buck. Boost elbow and the above mentioned transmission mods. I don't see why you won't be able to hang with the rest of your family, personally I think the torque curve/acceleration of a 12v will eat an electronic engine.


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ive read a lot about advancing the timing but im a little lost on the process to do that... is there instructions somewhere on here ive searched but all i see is people recommending it or asking how to do it.. im up for doing it to see the results just dont know how as for the 4k ill have to check and see if its affordable for me. if it is then hell yeah ima do it too. do i need to change injectors? they seem to be pretty spendy...

 

Here's what I did, the killer dowl pin needs fixed on all of these trucks. Pull the belt and fan off then the fan mounting housing. Harmonic balancer is next then the front tin cover will come off.

Fix the kdp now so as not to forget it. Put the harmonic balancer back on. Make some kind of mark on the balancer and a line up pointer to reference to on the motor. On the harmonic balancer every .084 thousands is one degree of pump timing. Factory setting is 12.5 degrees of advance. I like 18 to 20 degrees of advance so an extra 6 degrees is what I was looking for. 6x.084 equals .504 inches or one half inch. I made another mark one half inch back on the harmonic balancer.

The top of the balancer will need to go back towards the passanger fender. I made a simple plate with two holes to fit the holes that pull the gear off of pump. Loosen the nut on the gear on the pump to the end of the threads.

Put the puller on and pop the gear off. Back the motor up the one half inch. Pull the gear off of the pump and make sure they are clean and dry on the gear and pump shaft. Replace the gear and snug it down. I torqued mine to around 130 lbs. and then give it another third of a turn or so.

This is the redneck way, it works I didn't come up with it read it on another thread. This cures two things in one, fix the kdp that every 12 valve should have fixed. Puts the timing where they run good and you can make sure there is no oil on the shaft and gear when put back together. I hope this is a simple enough explanation of the redneck timing guide.

I bought my last set of pacbrake 4000 governor springs for 88 dollars shipped. Cheapest and best upgrade you can buy. I didn't do valve springs yet, just don't rev it over around 3300. They are done there anyways with the stock turbo.

 

Yes that was a very good explanation of how to do it. THANK YOU!!! and yeah i heard about the KDP and its gonna get fixed VERY SOON!!! did u buy a kit or just grind a piece of steel for your washer? i was looking at a kit but after reading some reviews it sounded like they send you a cheap crank seal (thin and tears easily) and some rtv sealant for the timing cover gasket... I'm not against taking shortcuts but i figured if you order a kit u should at least get ALL the gaskets to do the job. I already own lots of rtv and if the seal is cheap might just hit up Napa for the crank seal and call it good by building my own and getting a longer bolt. Thank u for all the advice!!! hopefully after all this is done my fiance doesnt put her foot into it and go over 3000... she has a heavy foot

 

Atleast you can get your little lady to drive yours, mine doesn't want anything to do with the truck. Afraid she'll fishtail it hahaha. 20* timing is putting it up there pretty high, most say 17 is the sweet spot w/o studs. Timing increases cylinder pressures and the chances of floating the head at lower boost pressures.


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Yes, 18 to 20 is a lot for stock. I just popped my head off yesterday. I'm sure it was a combo of the timing and way to much fuel for the stock turbo. Guess I'll get the head trued and put studs in. I knew this was probably going to happen, it was going to be tore down today to put twins on it so now it's just a little more work. I've run 20 on a truck with twins and towed heavy with it but it already had studs and a flat head.

I did the redneck timing, with the head off I think I'll double check it just to see if the poor man's way checks with the dial indicator way of setting it.

Like I've said in other threads don't mess with it unless you want to pay for your mistakes. I'm paying this week!