I know there are a million threads like this, but I'm not finding what I'm looking for so I'm just gonna ask. I'm about to do a cummins conversion on my ford, putting in a 12v out of a 96 auto. It's a bone stock motor with 130k on the odo. What needs to be done to make 400-450 hp? I will remove the kdp before install.

So far I'm looking at:

370 marine injectors
no fuel plate
TST light tension fuel spring
4k gsk
60 lb valve springs
BHAF
my 4" exhaust
phatshaft 62


Will this setup make my goal? Is there anything on this list not necessary? Can I get my goal with just upgrades on my hx35 instead? I'll be looking into a south bend clutch as well. I'm going to keep my zf5 since I've had it gone through.

Thank you for your time and nice site.

 

I'd invest in better injectors, like SDX 5x.012's. Personally, I'd just grind the fuel plate to a 100 and start with it centered in the slots so you have a little room to slide it forward and back according to the happy median between your butt-dyno and EGT's. No need for the light spring, really...just snag the awesome AFC tuning writeup sticky and tune your AFC accordingly (the AFC doesn't add horsepower, it just helps control the smoke and the takeoff grunt really...). Also, being a current PhatShaft 62 runner, I'd suggest upping the ante for a Silver Bullet unless you can handle a little turbo lag...I know that mine leaves a little bit to be desired.

All that in mind, plus a little timing bump and most likely a lift pump upgrade, you'll probably be in the running for right around 400 hp if everything is tuned correctly and the engine is tight. If not, perhaps look into the article that Diesel Power Magazine just ran on a "400 hp kit" for the P-pump Cummins that involves a HX35 exhaust housing upgrade, injectors, modified delivery valve springs, rack plug and some other hocus pocus all in a $1500 kit, iirc. Might be worth a look...

Good luck on the Fummins build! Glad to see another OBS Ford getting Cummins power!

 

x2 on better injectors... but if u have the trans to hold it you should be there with ur setup or pretty darn close

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may wanna upgrade dv's too...maybe some 181's

 

alright, thanks for the info guys. would i need studs at this range? and is a 4kgsk necessary? if i just go with a 3kgsk i wont need valve springs. Not that they're expensive, but then I don't have to take the head off and get a valve job done.

would a gt37r be a good choice over the phatshaft? i love that bb whistle

 

Personally, I think the 3k springs would just leave you wanting more. I have 4k springs (and 60lb valve springs and studs, mind you) and I love that mine pulls strong and doesn't start defueling until well past my 2500 rpm "****-it-n-git-it" shift point when I'm messing around. I would encourage the 4k GSK/valve spring/stud combo if you can swing it in your budget, but I can't really say that any of them are necessary for a daily driver. The 3k GSK will probably be fine if you're just looking to overcome that early defueling.

I don't know about a gt37r, but my PhatShaft 62 whistles pretty good...

 

just put in the 4k....i agree with 93 fummins....you will want more.

 

im running 4ks in my truck with no 60lbs just use your foot to not go past 3200ish

 

That's dangerous though... sure, it's possible, but if you break a driveshaft (or whatever), your foot will be on the floor for far too long

 

I thought the 180hp pump came with 181 dvs. I may be mistaken

 

I think so, its either 181's or 191's, I just know for sure its not 131's. 160's and 175's had 131's and 180's and 215's had the other ones.

Its too cheap and too easy to change to make it not worth running 60lb springs IMO.