a little over a week ago my nv4500 decided to grenade on me.. but one bad event is now going to lead into something a lot better!

i figure since i am going to drop the tranny i should just pull the motor and completely go through the hole pickup this time around.

my goals are to build the pickup a little bit more if not a lot more and also go through cleanup, re-paint motor/parts, new gaskets and possibly a rebuild kit while it is out.

i guess i would like as much feed back and suggestions as you guys can give me

some examples of what i would like to know is... what would you do to build it more? should i do a rebuild kit? if so where should i get it from? etc. any suggestions to make the proccess easier? really anything you want to throw my way!! i would even like to know what exact parts you guys prefer

most of the time this is my daily diver and it does tow alot as i farm so keep that in mind as you throw out build suggestions. although i do want a descent amount of power as i do sled pull and do not like to lose but who does

i have built a few previous pickups but not quite to the extreme im planning on going with this one so anything helps.

the pickup should be in my sig but just incase this is whats already done to it; intake, 4in exhaust, 50hp ddp injectors, o plate, afc maxed out, 60lbs valve springs, arp studs, o-ringed head, methanol injections, i have a 4k kit but not yet installed, valair double disc.

sorry for the long post but i figured the more you guys new about my plans the more you could tell me

im open to anything and THANKS for all your help, you guys are awesome

 

thats a tough question you wantin to win in 7500 stock 4x4 or 7500 mod class towing with a sled pull truck can get very hot imo. as far as the motor are you wanting to build it or freshen it up? if you want to freshen it up i think puredieselpower has a kit for around 800 if you want to build it you can go flycut pistons aggressive cam hd pushrods and lifters head studs 110lb springs 4 gsk etc. how much hp do you want and we can help you more. 400 or 700hp? twins or a single turbo? 5x12 injectors or 5x16? 16* timing or 22* just a tough question wats the goals

 

i definantly understand what your saying and totally agree, trying to have a competitive sled puller but still be a very capable tower is extremely hard. i guess i would have to favor the daily driver/tow rig and suffer in the sled pulling as i do use it every day on the farm. i would like to go fairly high hp, but still have it reliable. if that means building the motor and not just a freshin up thats ok. its hard to put an exact # on the hp only because all the diesels ive built been on the minor side. i would like to have twins i have a few things done already but definantly want a lot more. i guess my main goal is a high hp daily driver/tow rig if that helps. i definantly want to do this right so all info is helpful

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i guess if you wanted to build a high hp dd/tow rig how would you do it? and how much hp would you go?

 

ok here we go more on the towing side but power side too imo if i had the cash sitting infront of me and hands on with it i would call sdx asap for injectors becuase it takes a little amount of time for them to arrive! if you want to run deliver valves and pump mods id say stick with 5x12s if you have stacks on deck and deep wallets i would do a 62mm top turbo and a s472 bottom turbo. 5 inch downpipe and 5 inch out. if your goin to run twins imo say bye to the plumbing you have for the cold air intake cuz it will be different rawilliams on here can be the man to ask about where to even start on piping and better opinion for turbo set up for fuel. secondly on the fuel side if your pulling the motor pull the pump send it to one of the diesel heads on here or take it to a local diesel pump shop they can explain more about it then me but i would have timing bumped but matched to your fuel. sdx 5x14 injectors would do u great! if you want delivery valves look into smokem custom dvs there on the better priced side of things and less egts from what i hear. (fine tuned) a fuel plate is up to u i always ran one im not big on not running one but the number fuel plate is up to u or none at all. install the 4k but with your 4k youll need 60lb springs and if your running twins id just say get 110lb springs head studs are gonna be a must plus orings! get a valve job too while head is off valve stem seals wouldnt hurt if they need it. timining is a big factor but not my place to talk about but if you get head studs id start around 18* let a shop do that unless you have tools and know how. have the pump benched and flowed also! the shop can explain more about what needs to be done for your truck then i can but high hp and pulling imo here are the parts again

fuel-
5x14 injectors
4gsk
5 fuel plate
fine tuned afc
smokem dv's
bench and flowed pump with added timing

air induction-
twin turbos absolutely. like i said a 62mm top over a s472 would be great
5 inch down and out exhaust
a quickspool manifold is up to you.
cold air intake
bigger intercooler if $$ is rite
cfm intake (manifold) is up to u supposed to flow 44% more but 350 dollars

goodies-
oring the head
12mm head studs
valve job
110lb springs
kill the kdp if you havent
a cam would be awesome lowers egts 200 and adds horsepower and spools turbos quicker they cost around 500 and up for a good one you can also get a re grind. also if yoo change cam you have to do lifters and pushrods
keep your water meth to help cool that sucker down.



im surre ive forgot a few things but if was me with the money and that hp and if i added the cam id get fly cut pistons a nice hone in the block though. all new bearings and gaskets follow torque specs get a book. im forgetting stuff but that should be a stout motor and pullin wise should stay on the cooler side with cam and water meth and tuned afc. and on the sled pullin side readjust ur afc to max fuel turn up the water meth for more meth less water and let her eat! im only 19 so not the smartest just my ideas on it good luck bud any more questions?

 

it already has studs and o-rings. was a must with the meth. but there is definantly a lot more that needs to be done! i was kindof thinking the same things as you but i always like to here everyones input and knowledge as i am only 19 myself and have never gone this far with a build so all i know past what i have done is only by reading. and being young i know there are a lot more guys out there that know a million more things then i do. thanks for your input, everything helps

 

sounds good man ill let somebody else chime in here im just thinkin out loud rite now where is dave swank at when you need him

 

When you o ringed the head how did the cyl walls and the tops of the pistons look like? Before you go pulling the motor do a compression and a leak down test, if there both good and your cyl walls look good there really is no reason to change the pistons.

As for the bottom end there are tons of pullers that are spinning 5k on a stock bottom end, I will admit I'm not one of them but have close friends that are. The stock bottom end's on these trucks are very strong, your truck should have 12mm main bolts. If you do pull the motor all I would do is new bearings ( main and rod) and a set of main studs and rod bolts.

for a DD and a puller I'm gonna vote for a single charger, you will be able to run more pulls in a less compettive class than the twin charger class. If it were me an s366/71/.9 A/R t4 with a 44mm external gate with a spool flange is what I would run. This will allow quick spool for the street and it will still let you be compettive in your brush pull.

A 181/210 drop in cam from Hamilton diesel with there pushrods and springs will be a great choice for what your trying do to. Fuel wise you will need a good lift pump something 150gph +, 5x.016's would be as big on the injectors as I would go for the street, comp Dv's, and send your pump away to get flowed and benched. Fine tune your afc, put the 4k's in and you will be good to go.

Only other thing I would do is add a coolent bypass, this will keep you from blowing freeze plugs, and also help keep #5 and #6 cool during a pull.

This is what I have done to my 94 in my season video only difference is I have a mild port job on the head, ran a s465 last year, and my pump was benched to 5k. i ran 3rd gear low range with a 33" tire and did fairly well with it.

 

when i pulled the head the cyl walls and pistons looked descent but that was also 2 years ago and it has been ran hard ever since. i guess i just figured it would make building the motor a lot easier if it was out and it also like to leak a little bit of oil and a lot of power steering fluid so it would be nice to pull it out, clean it up and repaint everything.

i really appriceate all the info and help! There sure is a lot to think about and decide on.

dave, if i ran something simular to what you are saying would that put me around 500? and in you oppinion thats all you would do?

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also any suggestions on sites for some of these parts?

thanks again for the help

 

daves the man

 

where would you reccomend looking to find that turbo?