Sticking WOT is not a big thing for me wouldnt be the first time. What makes the rack stick though. Is that all that can happen?

 

I've run plateless, put it back in when I got the big sticks. Personally I liked it witout the plate. There's prolly 10 people around here that have ran over 200,000 combined miles with zero problems. One has 75,000 on his alone without a plate.

 

true 99.9 percent of Darren Morrison's customers have no plate.... it kind of gets me though that there is all this hear say and people always say it's bad but i have yet to see (either i person or on the internet) any evidence that running plateless will mess up a pump. they say it'll break a pin in there but noone can seem to say or show pictures of said pin.... i dono. i ran without it and that's my experience. and i haven' had to replace my pump yet.....

 

I dont have any evidence so Im out of this one.

 

Go up your life insurance, take your plate out and get some evidence.

All I've ever heard on this is hearsay too. I've seen tons of posts saying not to do it because of either this magical little pin inside the pump somewhere that could break or the whole excessive rack travel idea. I have yet to see one photo showing evidence of either of these happening.

My thoughts are that the only reason the plate is there for a tuning tool. You can get by with no plate and be fine because of the plug in the front of pump. But you can grind plates in any configuration you need to get your truck set up the way you want it.

As I said, my $.02.

 

But why not just go with a 0 plate?? - Im sure it would provide as much fuel as any of us need.

 

Well, and again this is strictly how I see it, I would suppose depending on your mods, usage, etc that for many a 0 plate would be fine. I guess I view plates as a primitive form of EFI live. No where near as exact or capable hence the term primitive.

Say you have a guy that's tuning for towing. He notices that at the start of his run he has lower EGT's and not even a haze from the exhaust which could indicate less fuel is available but at higher RPM's his temps start to go through the roof and the smoke is out of control. I theorize that with enough time, effort and patience he could grind away the plate just enough in the lower RPM's to give him the extra fuel and at the same time add metal to plate at the top end to clean up his smoke and temps. This gives you an infinite number of possibilities to match your plate to your modifications and driving style providing you have the patience to go through with it. That's the beauty of metal, with the right tools and techniques you can do anything with it. In a way this is what our very own Mr. Foogle did with his bosses truck some time ago which to a small extent makes me think I'm on the right track but again, this is just my personal theory.

Is this type of effort probable for the majority of us? Most likely not. I don't think I have the time or patience to go through so a 100 plate is good enough for me.

 

Well Im now currently running plateless and wow what a difference. I went from the stock plate FF to nothing so I really felt the difference.

 

I stole this image from Jim over at NewEnglandTurboDieselPower.com:



If you notice, the only pin I could see possibly breaking from excessive rack travel is the one between the AFC Foot and the rod the star wheel is on (the coarse adjustment for the spring preload) Or maybe something in that mess called the Governor arm (#'s 3 and 5)

Still, I'd rather run a 0 plate full forward than no plate. Just for the piece of mind that your governor arm isn't going to go through the front of your injection pump

 

Im still going to grind the stock plate a 100 eventually, do you have to adjust the gov arm for a different fuel plate?