with what i have in my sig am i gonna notice a big difference by bumping the timing to say 16 and putting a 3k kit in it? a shop nearby told me 350 to install the springs and do the timing without the springs is that a bit expensive or should i find somewhere else

 

the springs will make the bigger difference here, the gov springs are really not that bad of a job you could do it your self.

 

the springs will make a big difference and im pretty sure you will be happy with them, i think more timing helps out when your running alot of fuel or bigger injectors, right guys?

 

Bumping the timing up a little bit also seems to make the truck run smoother. Id go ahead with the 4k springs though

 

trust me you will really like it. do it yourself and save a little money and learn a thing or two

 

i bumped my timing to 16* when I installed the 3000 GSK and the #10 plate. Truck is VERY crisp and likes to rev now. A WORLD of difference from where it was before, when it had trouble getting to 55 on the freeway.

I agree with lodal cummins, learn how to do it yourself, save some money and know more about your truck. The first time you do it, you'll almost break even with the cost of having someone else do the job, but you'll also own all the tools. Next time it is free on your labor only.

Both jobs should take under 2 hours to complete, and that is taking into consideration removing a few pieces to gain access to the front cover.

When I did mine, I also did the KDP, so I already had the front of the motor stripped bare. It only took me 15 minutes to do the GSK, and under 30 to do the timing. It was my first time and I was reading as I went. (Thanks to a ton of great forum posts on how to do the job!) The actual work is way easier once you touch it than it seems when you read instructions. They make it all sound so complicated.

Just open the port that covers the timing gear, pull the gear with a puller (doesn't even have to come all the way off unless you want to super-clean the gear bore and shaft -- good idea so that it "sticks" when it goes back on -- no oil or other liquid allowed, metal-to-metal contact needed, almost any sort of puller that lets you stick 2 bolts into the gear with a screw to pop off the gear will work), turn the engine counter-clock-wise for 3/8" (as measured on the crank damper) and re-set the gear and you are timed to about 16*. GSK drop into the hole in the side of the governor (large cap right under the shut-off solenoid). Just pop the cap, turn the engine until you see the top of the spring centered in the hole, remove the little threaded nut -- making sure to count the turns so you can screw it back down the same amount -- pul the springs and shims with a pencil magnet, drop in the new, set the nut, and turn the engine to the other spring (there are two, 180* apart) and repeat. That's it...