Need to go to school 12v performance
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Need to go to school 12v performance
I have a 95 160 hp pump. 14" clutch ,spicer trans, 205 TC 14 bolt rear end with 3.73 gears and soon to have a locker. Running on 19.5 225/75 . Just so you know its in a Chevy crew cab. The motor has 5x12 injectors,# 5 plate, AFC all the way foward, star wheel max out toward motor, BMF air claner, 4" exaust no muffler,free flowing air intake horn, 3 pice manifold, wh1c turbo wastgate not hook up. Exaust max out 1220 pulling a loaded trailer up a long grade hill . Turbo max boost 28 avg. 16 with no smoke. I was going to set timing at 17.5 install rack plug and was thinking about 191 DV. So I have read about a #0 plate, remove plate , grind the foot of the afc flat, I have a hx35 and thought about making it a hybrid. I use this truck daily pulling trailers but I want more power with out taking away its use. My head herts Thanks
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I was told that 5x.12 injectors is a 370 injector. If I get a #0 plate should I get the 191 DV? What would grinding the foot off the afc do? What would max HP be with out o ring or studs? I all ready have 60lbs. springs.
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Ok turbo HX35 or HX35/HX40 or S300
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Ok turbo HX35 or HX35/HX40 or S300
Last edited by speedpower09; 05-28-2010 at 11:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#6
not all 5x.012's are 370's, 370's are a marine injector with a 155* spray angle. Stock 12v postons have a 145* bowl, which is why you should not run excessive timing with 370's.
With the addition of a gov spring kit you will be pushing you h1c very hard, so more fuel from a 0 plate and bigger dv's would just give you more smoke and heat. A turbo upgrade would be very helpfull.
For your studs and o ring question ... Some have good luck with a good amount of timing and boost with stock head blots and no studs, others dont have that luck. Your max number will depend on may things, if your planning on running the truck hard and making some power you will need at least a set of head studs.
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how much power are you looking to make?
With the addition of a gov spring kit you will be pushing you h1c very hard, so more fuel from a 0 plate and bigger dv's would just give you more smoke and heat. A turbo upgrade would be very helpfull.
For your studs and o ring question ... Some have good luck with a good amount of timing and boost with stock head blots and no studs, others dont have that luck. Your max number will depend on may things, if your planning on running the truck hard and making some power you will need at least a set of head studs.
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Ok turbo HX35 or HX35/HX40 or S300
Last edited by 94 12valve; 05-28-2010 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
i was think about putting that same cam in my 160 but i think your better off just getting a 180 or 215 pump, i think the cam cost around $600 and then the labor to put it in and recalibrate everything and you might have to change the plundgers and stuff which is like another $600-1000 in parts,
feel free to correct me if im wrong guys but thats what i heard from southwestdiesel(honestly they sounded clueless about the whole thing)
feel free to correct me if im wrong guys but thats what i heard from southwestdiesel(honestly they sounded clueless about the whole thing)
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