yep

 

With the PacBrake Brand, anyway. (probably the same for other 4K GSK brands, but Pacbrake actually tells you in their instructions.) These are the instructions that come with it. This.pdf is really better than what you get, because the .pdf shows the photos in color.

Although, Figure 106 looked different than what's I saw, on my truck... and where I/we got stuck. And the instructions also seems to assume you know things (such as the last sentence of step number 22, for example. As in, what idle screw?) Also it doesn't explain what happens if you install the springs too tight or too lose. Or if you drop a shim in the pump. And the pictures are obviously from a pump that hasn't been installed, nor in the position that it's really going to be.


Also, I found if you go to the wrong site... they'll charge as much as 200 bucks for the kit and separate the 3K kit from the 4K kit . I guess they just don't include the third pair of small springs with the 3K kit, nor tell you that the last set of springs is all that determines the max RPM. (and in those example seems they forgot to modify the description, too. If that's not a sign post to stay away, I don't know what is.)

 

Very good, this is a job I'll probably tackle myself. Although my concern is just what you said what if you drop a shim? I should be able to handle the measurement as I've used calipers in many jobs. so from what I see you start with the small spring and work outward and replace all 3 if you're choosing the 4k kit? Also is it easier to get the spring and then the shim afterward?

 

That other links I've left, in a previous post, had a bit to say about that.... if it happens I'll link it again.

However, any advice from me is really the blind leading the blind, you know.

 

just take everything out ONE at a time and you should be fine. one side might have two shims and the other side one or not shimed at all. they can all be different. hope you have better luck than i did getting the side plug back in. very fine thread and a royal pain in the butt for me.

 

your seriously over thinking this hardcore. its not a hard mod at all. just have patience, time, and a pencil magnet

 

I'm not over thinking anything. I've learned from mistakes in the past to make sure I've got the information I need before taking on a first time project rather that tearing something apart that I have no info about. I will be getting this done in the next couple weeks. Also info on changing the Valve springs, as far as the process of changing them. I do know how to remove the valve covers so we can skip that step. Thanks guys.

 

I did my first ones bout 2 months ago. got mine from diesel pap. i was worried about it and all but once you get in there it's alot easier than what you think. i did mine through the side it was alot easier than going through the top

 

The springs are pretty easy to install, just a little tough to get to. Just make sure you have a pencil magnet. You should also have a dial caliper or something to measure with, to make sure you get the retainers in the right place. Measure the exposed stud length before and after. It should be about .050.

The valve springs take longer to install, but are still pretty easy. Just make sure you have the right valve spring compressor, that makes a big difference on 5 & 6. The barring tool is nice to have too.

 

So I have a couple more questions. First what about changing the spring kit in the AFC? Second does anyone know if there are many members from Utah on this site?