5.9L 12V Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps Related to Performance and Longevity

Governer Springs

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  #21  
Old 03-23-2010, 11:20 AM
94 12valve's Avatar
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its so much easier to just remove the afc cover and plate to get to the gov springs.
This way the spring is straight up so you can see it better and you have more room.
 
  #22  
Old 03-23-2010, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 94 12valve
its so much easier to just remove the afc cover and plate to get to the gov springs.
This way the spring is straight up so you can see it better and you have more room.
But then there would be that bolt that I'd have to snap off (right?).

Glfredrick thanks for the detailed info. I still don't know if I'm really going to attempt it or not, yet. I'm still leaning towards, not; nevertheless. Maybe, I'll attempt it myself when I have everything in line. And have like a week off from work or something... where I don't need a reliable ride for a while, in case something *bad*, happens.

As for the notched tool, as in grinding a notch in a screwdriver, about how much of a gap do you put? (1/8" long and 3/16" deep, maybe?) Although, I don't have a grinder, so I'll probably have to do it with a file... plus need to locate a cheap screwdriver to destroy. How big of a head do you suggest? 1/2 inch, maybe?

And yeah we managed to tear the intake horn gasket. Cheapest price I could find it for was $5.50 (+tax) at a local Dodge dealer. Not that it mattered, online isn't exactly an option when you need it today.

However, online, the cheapest I found them for was around $2.50... with about 7 dollars worth of shipping!. Then I found it at some other sites for around 6 bucks with 3 dollars shipping and what-not. I've also noticed that online it can be confusing what you're looking for. I mean you look under, "intake horn gasket", and you usually don't find anything. "Heater Grid", gives you a lot more results. Also for reference the cummins part number seems to be: 3969988. Typing that in gives you returns, too. Or may help when they don't provide pictures (such as in my first link.)

In my initial search for instructions, I found this page. Initial instructions are about going through the top. The comments that follow the instrucitions, I found note worthy. Although, still didn't help much in my/our attempt. (Heh here's something funny, I found the same basic instructions on another site, as a .pdf, but minus some inserts, such as his special earth magnet....)

Originally Posted by 94 12valve
You are really going to mess up nothing in doing this kit unless you drop a part inside the fuel pump...
Heh, well that's the part that scares me. and my Pop. How many shims/pieces should I end up with? Number of springs is a given, but it's the number of shims that scares me.
 

Last edited by Threesixty; 03-23-2010 at 02:26 PM.
  #23  
Old 03-23-2010, 03:40 PM
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You don't need any special magnets... Just any decent pencil magnet will do. Just make sure it isn't a bargain basement variety that has no holding power. If it will lift a half-inch nut and hold it, it will lift the parts you're working with.

It really isn't that big a deal (haven't I said that already about 10 times?) to take the parts out. I was scared too until I just did it. Then it was like, C#%p -- that was easy.

Some guys advocate going down through the top. To me, that means reaching into the pump about 3 extra inches or so instead of having everything RIGHT THERE. I'd say there is an easier chance to drop stuff using the top method, but either way will work. With the side method, the springs are tipped up a bit from sticking straight out sideways. Everything stays on the pin until it is right at the surface of the hole. No real way to drop anything that way. You can SEE IT. Think carnival ring toss game -- a peg with stuff lowered down over it -- only you get to be right on the peg when you do the work.

I used a Dremel tool to do the notch in the screwdriver. I also ground the tip of the driver down to where it was widest, then narrowed it to fit the slot in the nut. I'd say a 1/4" slot would do it, and if it doesn't file it wider. You really don't need that - I just did it to make it faster. Use an ULTRA CHEAP 1/2" wide screwdriver. A 99 cent special will do it. No real force of any kind on the nut at all.
 
  #24  
Old 03-23-2010, 09:33 PM
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this isnt a hard mod, its all in your head. i was nervous when i did mine. and i just turned 15 years old. just have a nice pencil magnet and some patience. youll get it. and i thought the directions that came with the pacbreak kit from diesel pap were accually pretty good
 
  #25  
Old 03-23-2010, 10:14 PM
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did you know dan that they are 3 or 4 k kits. just dont use the whole thing for 3 k
 
  #26  
Old 03-23-2010, 10:23 PM
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yep. i think youd be dumb not to do the 4k. there so much better, and if ya can control yourself, valve springs arent required right away

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

ill be giving you a call tommorow for valair hydros diesel pap
 

Last edited by dan33klein; 03-23-2010 at 10:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #27  
Old 03-23-2010, 10:24 PM
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  #28  
Old 03-23-2010, 10:26 PM
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id give ya a call to tonight to talk about it, but i gotta wait till tommorow to deposit the cash for my buddy in my checking!
 
  #29  
Old 03-24-2010, 04:30 AM
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So Diesel Pap what you're saying is if you buy the 4k kit and only install half of it then it makes it a 3k kit?
 
  #30  
Old 03-24-2010, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cawhorses
So Diesel Pap what you're saying is if you buy the 4k kit and only install half of it then it makes it a 3k kit?
Exactly. There are two extra small springs that slip inside the spring pack that make a 3000 GSK into a 4000 GSK. Your choice whether to run them or not. Run with the 3K springs, swap in the 4K springs and go back any time you like. Only takes a few minutes once you've been in there and know how it works.
 


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