I got my SB in yesterday.
I'm running cummins bellhousing and input shaft on the front of a chevy trans (sikk setup with the newer shift tower and harmonic balancer )

I'm running dodge master and slave cylinders. Master rod is welded to the chevy rod that comes to the pedal. The line is spliced to make it fit right, but not leaking.

With stock clutch the same setup worked perfectly. I put the organic/feramic southbend in, and the clutch isn't completely disengaging. at first I thought I had no release, but I tried jamming it into gear and it does work, just isn't completely disengaging.

Does anyone have experience with this setup? I'm not sure if its just break in or if I have a hydraulic leverage issue. Pedal to master cylinder has no adjustment so I'm gonna have to hack **** up to change it.

 

My first thought would be the is if the clutch disk is in right not in backwards? Not questioning your abilities or anything but has happen to me was frustrating as h@!! trying to figure out what was wrong. Other than that.... Did you put a new slave and master on it or reuse the old ones? If new thinkin that the slave might be bound up and what GM trans does it have a clutch fork on it? or internal slave?

 

I'm going to check that I put it in the right way tonight. I was really careful with this install but it wouldn't be the first time I've done that.

Slave and master aren't brand new, but they have ~2500 miles on them. Dodge master and slave. Using the dodge bellhousing with the dodge shift fork and slave/fork setup. Its organic on one side and feramic on the other, so I think I'll be able to peek in that hole at the bottom of the bellhousing and figure out whether i put it in the right way or not.

 

Yea ok understand more now the set up ya got there. yea check the disk if you can see and tell which is which. Like i say have flipped the disks more times than i care to mention had to r&r trannys on more than one occasion Its one thing to do when its your own but when you are makin a living wrenchin and gettn pd flat rate and the 2nd time out its on you and not makin any $$$ makes a guy stop and think a little on the next clutch job well let me know what you find out got me curious now. good luck hope you dont have to pull the tranny again

 

The SB from my experience set up very tight from the factory. It will take several miles before it seats in and works properly. My last pulling clutch took 1k miles and six hooks before it loosened up. Yes it can be a pita. You will ultimately have a clutch that works great and lasts a long time.

 

Thats what I want to hear

I'm definitely looking forward to getting through the break in period and really get on the bitch. Paid more for the clutch than the trans though, so trying to keep my foot out of it.

Glad I went with the southbend. Everything I hear is good.

 

I've installed several SB clutches including twin discs. Everyone I've done needed a break in period, some more than others.

 

I had similar issues.................get er broke in and it should straighten out bro

 

If this is a pulling clutch I would highly recommend one of SouthBend's HD Master/Slave cylinder's. They have an extra big mechanism in them that makes the clutch so much easier to push, gives you better clutch feel and is adjustable for clutch travel. I have mine setup so that I only have to push the pedal about 3 inches to completely disengage the clutch.

 

Just wondering on those SB clutches what the "normal" life expectancy is for those just a daily driver some towing (not very heavy 10k at most) not pulling or racing or anything like that. just your every day CTD