I am putting a 1996 12 valve in my 2003 1 ton dodge and am completely lost on the fuel plate deal? Prior to this motor I had a 93 12 valve in the truck and more power made sense, but I do not get the different numbers for the fuel plates with this IP pump, can someone please lay it out in simple guy terms which fuel plates do what and how much of it? Thanks
Chad

 

The fuel plate is basically a stop that allows so much fuel into the pump. As you shave the plate down, it allows more gas into the pump therefore creating more power but along with higher egts. The numbers are just the different plate profiles. Like a #0 plate has nothing on the front end while the #100 plate as a small notch at the bottom restricting fuel flow. This might help you understand the numbers:

 

This is right from the TST Products website - the originators of the aftermarket Torque Plate:

All P7100 Bosch® injection pumps (the big pump used on most '94 and newer Cummins® B and C series engines including all '94 thru '98 12-valve and pre-Jan. 1998 Dodge Rams) contain a torque plate (sometimes called a cam plate in the trade) which sets maximum fuel delivery versus RPM. TST torque plates are computer designed, fuel pump test stand developed and dynamometer tested to change the maximum fuel delivery of the stock pump to a new value that will provide the new horsepower and torque curves. Each engine power rating requires a different torque plate design to achieve the same final value, in other words the TST torque plate for a 160 horse engine is a different shape from a 175 engine, etc.

 

and i'm here to tell you that the #100 is the best all around choice hands down!if you keep ypur foot out of it you won't see any difference in milage,but when you mat it you have the same power you will get out of a #0 which is the hardest fueling plate.

 

Great info guys, got the cummins all cleaned up and painted tonight, will be sticking it in tomorrow, whats up with the other fuel plates, the 5, 6, 8, etc. Are they simply intermediate and not worth mentioning? Why does the 10 plate have the point on it, does that do something at a certain rpm? Also, the engine I'm putting in has an electric fan clutch on it , not the usual thermal clutch, whats up with that, how is it wired, whats it worth? And finally, how do I put the 3 k spring kit in, I did it on my rotary pump and it was a noticable differnce, need to do same with this motor.

 

The others are worth mentioning but most people are running #0s and 100s... I ran a #5 plate before I got power crazy and it added quite a bit of power so I wouldn't call it intermediate. As for the #10 plate having the horn, as far as I understand, its just away of restricting the fuel flow...

The other questions I can't answer but if you wait awhile they'll get answered

 

And I am here to tell you that your incorrect.

Please read what the good Doctor has just posted for you and maybe you will learn something.I have said it before and I will say it again,The #100 plate is NOT the answer for all P7100's because they are all different CPL's.Yes,maybe in a P7100 out of a 5spd truck this statement would be true,but,they do not perform as well in the automatics.

 

Hammer is right on the money as usual. Different truck respond differently, and you have to do some experimentation as well as a lot of tweaking to get things just right. My auto (180 hp) didnt respond very well to the 100, but to be honest, so far I have not tweaked it as much as I would have liked.

 

I'm am definately running a 5 speed, would there happen to be a similar diagram showing all the plates or even just a a spreadsheet with the difffernt increases per plate? I'm assuming here that the 100 is the most extreme prior to flat out black smoking number zero plate.

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Also, if I put the plate in and use the brass restrictor, am I going to have to worry about head gasket failure? Will I need head studs Immediately for concern of being stranded?

 

Cummins Diesel Torque Cam Fuel Plate Dodge 5.9L 12 Valve P7100 Injection Pump

this page has the power ratings for the #11 to #5 plates. As for a diagram of them I have never seen one but I'm sure they're out there. I don't think you'll have to worry about the gasket failing unless your flooring it constantly. As far as headstuds, you should be fine with the factory studs as long as you aren't pushing over 50psi boost but its a cheap insurance policy because I blew my head off only doing about 38psi