5.9L 12V Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps Related to Performance and Longevity

Going to the dyno

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2009, 09:24 AM
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Default Going to the dyno

I have never been to the dyno with my truck, i am going this weekend and want to get a higher score than my buddie, what can i do that will make good power really easy? do you guys think if i pulled my air filter off for the 3 runs the truck would be ok? and would it be worth it for the power gain? the kids got a 215 pump 97 with stock injectors,timming and dvs, the only thing hes got done to it is the 3000gsk, which i had to do for him. hes got a 0plate, bhaf, and stacks. you guys think i have a chance to even come close? I want to beat him bad bud i don't know if my ole girls gonna have the sack any suggestions would be good. I am going this weekend so i need info fast. I am going to clean the pre filter and put all new fluids and new fuel filter. what other things can i d0
 
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:49 AM
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Bump your timing, That Converter is gonna help you out alot, TRy Draging the brakes to get some boost built up in teh engine. I would not be worried about taking off the air cleaner, just make sure there is no lose dirt or pother crap under your hood that can get sucked in.
 
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:37 AM
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why wouldnt you beat him? just from reading your signiture it sounds like you would beat him
 
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:06 PM
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pull your plate out

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

make sure you run with over drive off converter locked in 3rd
 

Last edited by 12valvetater; 05-14-2009 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:42 PM
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brake boost the hell out of it, i have been on 2 dynos and the frist one i was running 7 to 10 psi and put out 370hp and 900ftlbs torque the 2nd time i played on the dyno (same dyno) rode the brakes hard. boost went from 10 to 45psi and put down 440hp and 1200ftlbs torque. Also was on a Dyno jet dyno, they dont load the turbo.

want to hit the dyno agian since installed injectors and changed the timing to see what i can put down.
 
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:55 PM
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If you have a little time, pull the afc off and do the mods to it. Grind the angle on the foot flat, and switch the washer around the diaphragm. Then pull the plate out and run plate-less. Doing this will definitely give you the edge over him. I think you'll be surprised by how much advantage you'll really have. Also like said above, make your Pull in 3rd with the converter locked and ride the brakes a little to help build load. You should have him beat for sure.
Sean
 
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:00 PM
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switch the washer around the diaphragm??? whats this
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:19 PM
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If you take the AFC apart, there is a diaphragm inside. On either side of the diaphragm there is a washer. 1 of the washers is cup shaped switching the cup shaped washer with the normal washer will allow for increased rack travel. However, it is kind of like turning up the smoke screw a little as it increases low/0 boost fueling. Replacing the cupped washer with a modified flat washer and leaving the other washer in place will give you the best of both worlds.
Hope this helps a little, I'll try and dig up some pics if you want.

Also, once you have the AFC off the truck, disassembly is pretty easy. If you are pulling the AFC to do the plate, its not going to take that much more time to mod your afc internals as well. Many people will completely gut the AFC which will give you full rack travel (the same as modding it). But that limits smoke control and actually tuning of the fuel:boost ratio.
Sean
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:25 PM
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o ok... well mines gutted at the moment bc i ground the foot and i havent got around to puttin it in yet, so basically its like being able to turn the smoke screw more towards the engine than it will actually go?
 
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:14 PM
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Not really. Switching the washers around the diaphragm allows everything to travel further and ultimately gives you more rack travel where as screwing in the smoke screw only gives you more fuel at zero boost. The thing about switching the washers around the diaphragm is that if the cupped washer is still used it doesn't allow for the foot to return all the way to the stock position at zero boost. This has a similar effect to turning the smoke screw in.

So switching the washers has the same effect as turning the smoke screw in a little bit, but also allows for more over all rack travel as well. Running 2 flat washers and ditching the cupped washer, has no effect on zero boost fueling and still allows for increased rack travel. The purpose of flipping the washers is for rack travel not zero boost fueling, but it has that as an unintended consequence. The next limiting factor to rack travel is the foot of the arm, and then the rack plug at the other end of the pump. However, rack plugs require removal of the pump, and are detrimental to performance in the 215 pumps.
Sean
 


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