You can do the stuff on your list cheaper than you would think to be honest. Your injectors can get you to 400-500hp. Grind the plate to 0 or pull it out, Also tune your AFC. Definitely stud it, but for that power I wouldn't worry about rings. You can time it pretty easily, and also you can make a shim to shim the gov. to 3k, which is really all you need for an auto trans, in that power range. If it was a manual, i'd say go 4k so you could hold gears longer, but personally I would just shim your current gov. stack.

As for the turbo, you can find a solution for cheaper than a couple grand. I built my twins for around $1100 bucks, and they support 500hp just fine, and you could easily make bigger ones for a similar price. And actually, in recent research I've been doing for building twins for a local shop the price can be brought down even lower if you have the skill and patients to build your own set. If you're interested in twins, PM me, cause I'm sure we could get you a set that will support that power no problem for around the same price as an expensive single, and you get the added bonus of drivability and the coolness factor of having twins.
Sean

Sean,
Thanks for the suggestions on free power mods. Good price on the twins. When I get around to pulling the turbo this coming spring I will let you know. First priority is getting the pump mods done first, then studs, and timing. Didn't realize the stock injectors are good for the 400-500hp range?? Sweet deal.
Greg

I don't go with the stock injectors for 400+. The 215 injectors are good for flow and some delivery valve work can make them surely smoke, but really I would bet more in the 350 range. Its about all I could muster out of mine. I got used DDP3 injectors, used turbo and the rest was new. You can save on some parts but not the rest. If you want to get into the 500 club, studs are a minimum. I am playing with fire with mine, but I am keeping the boost under 45 psi.

There have been a couple trucks to break the 500hp mark on stock 215 injectors. Running 62mm chargers, 022DV's, .078 holders, no plate, and the afc maxed out. If he's shooting for the 400-500 range, he should be fine, and I'd say do the injectors last and see if he can get there without them. Then if he throws them in he could get even higher pretty easily. I would think that he could break into the 400 range without the .078 holders as well, and just go with the 022's.
Sean

If the injector is the final orifice into the engine, why not change it instead of ramming more fuel through? I wonder what the injection line pressures are like with the stockers at that kind of flow? I still like the feel of the injector upgrade, more power all around the RPM band and the DDP's are just as good as the stockers for idle smoke and start IMHO...

Yeah I agree injectors are key. I am definitely going with DDP's. I know the guy that originally developed the injectors for them. I believe they still are the best out there. It's still on my Bomb order. I'm just going to do the free mods first and relatively cheap stuff first. Turbo and injectors are last as they are going to be the most spendy.

Yup.. I went the same route. Plate mods, clutch, then the #10, exhaust, turbo, injectors, 3GSK was my time line. If I knew how well the GSK worked, I would have done it first.

Hee.Heee.....:U:...:ok1:....We told you,you'l love the 3k upgrade...:howdy:

Well, the 215 pump already went to 2700-2900 without much trouble so I didn't think it would do much.. I was mistaken. The pull right from the get-go is totally different. Now I have to watch as if I get the tires lit on wet pavement, 3300 is not a problem...:blush:

So would it be advantageous to skip the 3K and go right to a 4K setup? Are the 60lb valves then required?