Bomb order.
 

Looking for a little advice on the order of bombing my 12.
So far the mods to date starting with high priority.
1. New Goerend Billet auto (done)
2. Gauges. (done)
3. 4" Exhaust. (done)
4. Amsoil 4510 version of the BHAF. (done)
5. Grind my fuel plate to a "0".
6. 3K GSK or go with the 4K?
7. Advance my timing.
8. 60lb valve springs
9. Injectors DDP Stage3 or F1's
10. HTT 64/71/14 or 62/71/13ss Turbo

Am I missing anything? The order is also based on money. The trans I didn't have a choice. Stock tranny I knew I would have to deal with. It also roasted on me shortly after buying the truck like within 500 miles.. I wanted something that would last.

Figured the turbo would be the last on order due to the cost. Most likely be spending a couple grand on it. Looking to be in the 400-500hp range and tow roughly 10k.
Thanks for the input.

more than a coupple grand

Sorry I meant 2 grand on the turbo only. I'm figuring close to 4grand total with the remaining items.

something like that tranny will be close to $1500, turbo close to $2000, injectors almost a $1000, rest of it looking at near another $1000

Yeah the tranny is done and I've got over 5grand in it. Billet everything, triple disc, goerend custom valve body, etc... rated to handle up to 800hp.

lol

I would go with 4ks. And the trubos you have and injectors are enough to push you into into and past the 500s with the right tuning.

Your on the right track only thing i can see would be maybe some DVs if your 181s cant support it and maybe some engine work (studs, fire rings). The nearer you get to sticks and turbo the more you should look at every option and what your end goal is gonna be. If your looking at more the 400 hp range 215 injectors and the right turbo and tuning will get you there. If your looking for 500hp a 90hp injector will get you there pretty easy.

:c:

yep definatly rings and studs worst mistake i made was running this much boost an a stock headgasket and stock head bolts:argh:

I figure I might hear the 4K be the ticket. At what HP range do I need to look at doing studs and rings? I wasn't planning on pushing past 500hp. Any insight on which HTT turbo? Looking for something that still spools quickly as I don't want to lose my low end. Also what size delivery valves?

thats going to be a good build, the gsk will really wake the truck up. im doing the same build but im going with the towing twins set up.

Im sure some turbo guys will chime in but I would say a 62 of some kind. As for studs its more of a preventative thing. I would only get them if you plan on boosting past 50 or running past 17* of timing.

You can do the stuff on your list cheaper than you would think to be honest. Your injectors can get you to 400-500hp. Grind the plate to 0 or pull it out, Also tune your AFC. Definitely stud it, but for that power I wouldn't worry about rings. You can time it pretty easily, and also you can make a shim to shim the gov. to 3k, which is really all you need for an auto trans, in that power range. If it was a manual, i'd say go 4k so you could hold gears longer, but personally I would just shim your current gov. stack.

As for the turbo, you can find a solution for cheaper than a couple grand. I built my twins for around $1100 bucks, and they support 500hp just fine, and you could easily make bigger ones for a similar price. And actually, in recent research I've been doing for building twins for a local shop the price can be brought down even lower if you have the skill and patients to build your own set. If you're interested in twins, PM me, cause I'm sure we could get you a set that will support that power no problem for around the same price as an expensive single, and you get the added bonus of drivability and the coolness factor of having twins.
Sean

Sean,
Thanks for the suggestions on free power mods. Good price on the twins. When I get around to pulling the turbo this coming spring I will let you know. First priority is getting the pump mods done first, then studs, and timing. Didn't realize the stock injectors are good for the 400-500hp range?? Sweet deal.
Greg

I don't go with the stock injectors for 400+. The 215 injectors are good for flow and some delivery valve work can make them surely smoke, but really I would bet more in the 350 range. Its about all I could muster out of mine. I got used DDP3 injectors, used turbo and the rest was new. You can save on some parts but not the rest. If you want to get into the 500 club, studs are a minimum. I am playing with fire with mine, but I am keeping the boost under 45 psi.

There have been a couple trucks to break the 500hp mark on stock 215 injectors. Running 62mm chargers, 022DV's, .078 holders, no plate, and the afc maxed out. If he's shooting for the 400-500 range, he should be fine, and I'd say do the injectors last and see if he can get there without them. Then if he throws them in he could get even higher pretty easily. I would think that he could break into the 400 range without the .078 holders as well, and just go with the 022's.
Sean

If the injector is the final orifice into the engine, why not change it instead of ramming more fuel through? I wonder what the injection line pressures are like with the stockers at that kind of flow? I still like the feel of the injector upgrade, more power all around the RPM band and the DDP's are just as good as the stockers for idle smoke and start IMHO...

Yeah I agree injectors are key. I am definitely going with DDP's. I know the guy that originally developed the injectors for them. I believe they still are the best out there. It's still on my Bomb order. I'm just going to do the free mods first and relatively cheap stuff first. Turbo and injectors are last as they are going to be the most spendy.

Yup.. I went the same route. Plate mods, clutch, then the #10, exhaust, turbo, injectors, 3GSK was my time line. If I knew how well the GSK worked, I would have done it first.

Hee.Heee.....:U:...:ok1:....We told you,you'l love the 3k upgrade...:howdy:

Well, the 215 pump already went to 2700-2900 without much trouble so I didn't think it would do much.. I was mistaken. The pull right from the get-go is totally different. Now I have to watch as if I get the tires lit on wet pavement, 3300 is not a problem...:blush:

So would it be advantageous to skip the 3K and go right to a 4K setup? Are the 60lb valves then required?

well that is something that is up to you because you'll have plenty of fuel to get there. you could try the 3gsk n decide you want more n just buy the upgrade kit (its like 30 dollars maybe) and have a 4gsk. just remember if you decide to go 4gsk you will need 60 lb springs