Well, I found a longblock with 6 brand new liners, decked block, not assembled. fully rebuilt head, washed, cleaned, etc for $1500 CDN. It has new cam bearings already in it, comes with conn rods, bearings, pins, etc... Head and block combined have been machined .010"

It comes with Mahle 286210WR, standard size... I was wondering if this was the marine piston and the compression ratio on it.


Now here are my plans for this engine... Keep the compression close to stock, put in a decent cam, fly cut the pistons as much as I need to for clearance, keeping a stock head gasket thickness.

The truck is a general purpose vehicle, does it's share of heavy towing, needs to start at 0F without being plugged in (though it usually is)

What do the experts think of this? If I flycut the pistons about 1/16th (.06325") that should give me enough clearance with a stock HG to still run a decent cam, start well, etc.

The cam I'm looking at is the "big stick" from Hamilton, 188-208-106.5 LSA Cast Cam .310"/.320"

What cam gear do I need for this? Is the stock '94 12V gear going to work?, what about the retainer?

 

should be a first gen piston 17.3 CR in stock form is what I found on my search

Personally I would just run a thicker head gasket rather than waste time only cutting 1/16 off the pistons, I understand you want to keep the CR up and it will will only drop a small amount with a thicker gasket.

Yes your stock cam gear will work just fine, the retainer bolts on the cam to keep the cam gear from walkin off its well worth the money. Make sure when you install that cam you degree it in correctly and check your piston to valve clearance. That cam is a big one for a drop in and you could run into issues if clearance is not checked

 

Well, I kinda crashed up my truck last week, tweaked the front frame horns, so I am removing the cab to straighten it all out (anyone got official measurements and measuring points?), and I was going to repaint the truck this summer, so that's getting done sooner.. no crumpled body panels, but rad and IC are munched up, and the bumper was munched already from a deer with a death wish a month ago.. when it rains, it pours!

So, the long and the short of it, is that since I have the cab off, I am going to throw the new engine in... I went with a Colt Stg3 reground cam since they're local, Piston protrusion is now .016" after cutting them down. I also cleaned up the intake and exhaust ports in a big way, though I didn't take much material out of the exhaust runners.. and I unshrouded the valves as well.. it should make a considerable difference.

I'm staying with the same IP, ARP studs, etc... Heck, the last engine snapped the tranny input shaft and I shift nicely, so I didn't build this engine looking for more torque.. nothing is holding up behind it as it is, so I wanted it to rev more freely, and be more efficient in the 2500 RPM range so I can downshift and it'll be happier, with lower EGT's

I painted it all up nicely, each part individually, Ford blue and silver... Looks pretty good, and it's had a couple months to cure.

Of course I put all new bearings in, All gaskets from Cummins, new oil pump, etc, It'll get 60HP injectors... Now I just hope it'll run!

 

LOL... hopefully

 

Well, I fired it up, and it sounds good, nice and much more responsive than the last engine... haven't driven it yet, still doing body work... The new paint is going to look sick!... Debadging as well, getting rid of the big honking mirrors and putting flipups in time, stock power mirrors for now though.

Perhaps someone can tell me a bit more about exactly which points on the fuel plate correspond with what RPM ranges... From what I understand, the lower edge of the fuel plate is low RPM fuel limit, and it climbs up it.. how far up would it be at 3000 rpm though? I'd like to reduce my fueling at 2000 and under, and have max fuel come in at about 2500... How far from up from the bottom edge does that RPM correspond to?

 

Varies a little based on pump setup. Best way to check it, is use machinist dye or even a magic marker on the plate. Put it in a run it to desired rpm, then pull the plate and check it. I had a 0 plate that I had put some reference marks on, but can't find it right now.

 

Check out NWBombers .. there is some guides to cutting your own Fuel plate there ..

Hope this helps

 

I've seen that pic lots, and it is a good guide, I will look at nwbombers (.com I'll guess?)

I know that cutting your own plate is 'educated guesswork', and trial and error will be involved... (both of which I like avoiding!)... A rough guide would be sufficient.

One thing I don't get are the sharp corners on some plates (take the stock one)... is that meant to prevent the arm from rising up on it? what for?.. it sounds like you'd have to take your foot off the throttle and mash it again quickly to get over it.

Looking at all the profiles, I think a #8 or #12 would be most like what I need to help reduce driveline grief... a little less torque where the I6 has a lot of rattle, and increase it as it smoothes out