I just signed into DB today, you all helped me threw my 1st top end 12v rebuild, so thought I'd register😜 did a full head rebuild 3 weeks agao decked and exhost decked, mag flux, new exhaust seats 60lb's enginteck and ARP's, lash to spec in .10 ex.20 ran like a well oiled macine, pulled harder on bottom, but lost top pull 80-100mph only thing I can think of is bad lash "did cold" before I could figure what I did wrong I DIY'ed mo own sequential turbo set up, stock hx35, with a "FREE" hybrid of sort. It's a t4cat industrial fat, switzer intake! That's all the info I have on it, besides the fact It was too big as a single, hit 900deg 6" after within 100' of my drive! Kept if 2 years till last weekend when I built it into my 1st saquential set up, I'm 10,600lb utility truck and regularly hit 900deg 6" after turbo like big truck. Sory I'm ignorant! I know, but I'm not dumb, and do all my own mods my self, I know it's not accurate so I keep my max EGT at 900deg, my new issue is my egt's are average higher than stock hx35. 1-3 tb lag, 4th locked lights the 2nd but, cant wood it because egt's get to my limit of 900, I have stock sticks & dv's, #10 plate, no gate, pep boys filter, star adjusted, kdp still kicking! 60lb springs, 3k, ARP, 4th auto in 2 years! Can you guy offer some wisdom? I've opened that can o worms! I work it ha rd every day and beat it up on the weekends😜 I'm geting 42psi, 10 over single hx35, computers suck so incase I can't fig out this sight, johnboy@switched.com thanks!

 

you need to open the gate on the hx35 it will help drive the big charger ... more info would be very helpfull on the primary turbo as well.

 

Makes sence, let some hot gas past, and the loss in boost, is compinsated by the faster spooling big turbo? All that aside, as of today it put out a md, cloud of blue after idoling for 2min, the second ploom os black, let it idol Another min or so and it did it again! The egts were at 300 so I can't see oil leaking into the exhost side and being burnt at the first snap, I pulled the boost tube from big to sm, and it was dri, tonight after work I'll pull the intake to the head and look for oil! What would your guess be? 3weeks on new head job and I did it my self and trust it, "buddy's shop" I'm really worked up about this, thank you for your input

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I also suspected the big turbo to be bad, there was a little oil on bothe the in & ex side were they meet the main body, and after my 2:45 commute to work, I looked around everything for any problems and saw a drop of oil hanging on the bottom of the boost side of big turbo, I just don't see how it could leak buy, sit in the exhaust side and plume blue at the touch of the throttle, with only 300 deg on the pyro

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The primary turbo is the stock hx35 that came on the 96 12v, I flipped the manifold, and built a 1/2" stainless flange same shape as the cast back plate, welded that to a 3" thick wall butt weld 90 the ones you can find at a pipe suply house ment to be welded, then made a t-4 flange out of 1/2" stainless and welded that to the other side of the 90. So the exhaust goes in the stock hx35 out the back threw the 90 into the big turbo and out, the boost from the bottom big turbo dumps into the sm and then to the air to air, hope that's how it should be.

 

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo325/94_12valve/twins.jpg
This is what it should look like, the top turbo would be your secondary in your case the hx35. The bigger charger would be your primary, you want the gate to open on your 35 to open inturn driving the primary turbo harder and making more boost.

 

The vid/pic wouldn't show, but the way you explained, is exactly how I set mine up, except the wast gate, witch I'll fix, I fear the big turbo has blown seals/seal so if it makes it home tomorrow, I'm puting it back to stock, till I get dv's at least. I jumped into this too quick, I need a bigger air filter, and need to make sure the drain bung I put in the pan is sufishant, 2" from top, and 1/2 ID. I suspected the turbo to be bad from the get, but tryed it, now there is oil drop hanging from the boost side, and you can see oil has wicked down the face of the exhaust side, any more input would be greatly apresiated, thanks

 

 

Why are you limiting yourself to 900°? It should be able to handle twice that sporadically, and 900-1200° is nothing for a 12V if the cooling system is up to snuff. I work my truck a thousand miles a week, I hit 1350° every time I pull a trailer at least a few times. Runs like a clock. I must not be understanding something you said?

 

his pyro is after the turbo not before

 

As of last night, I finly took the time to get with the times and drilled 2 holes in the manifold ware it collects for the turbo. In the front 3 cil is the pyro and the back 3 is for my drive preasure, I got a role of copper oi l preasure line and wrapped it around a piece of 3/4pvc, slid it off, and stretched the coils out to catch wind and cool the signal temp down, I ran it to a 3 way air fan clutch 12volt valve, so at a flick of a switch my boost gauge will read intake, or exhaust preasure! And with the pyro in the manifold the reading is much hotter, about 200-300 deg, so I need to test it on a few good grade on my commute to see ware I max out. Thanks guys

 

Oh, now that part of the original post makes sense. Hm. Well.

Interesting setup for a boost gauge, I like it.