I have a 98 12 valve quad cab do mostly towing a 11000 lb 5th wheel I have asked 3 different Diesel Mec. each have told me different things one said a #11, one a #10 would be better then a #11 just don't put it as far forward unless you want more power and another told me to put in a #6.
Which one would be best for me and why?

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I think you need a lettle more info I have 4x4 with a manual trans NV4500, I have put in a HD Clutch. and have a BD exhuast break, 60lb exhuast valve springs.

 

#0 plate, full forward, tune your afc...



Not to hard to make it yourself...

The foot travels from the bottom and goes up, so the lowest part of the plate tells you how much fuel is retarded at that rpm..

i did a #0 for quicker spool-up, tuning your AFC is also VERY important...

as long as you don't advance timing on your pump, and you don't have a 4k GSK kit or above, given that it has stock timing, you will be fine with the mods you have...

the starwheel and smoke screw will control pre-boost smoke...

mine was pretty clean when i was at your level with a #0 plate, stock timing and good AFC tuning

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you will have to upgrade your clutch though, because when you start.. you can't stop..

you can make around 350-370whp with the stock charger...

 

I have a 100 plate and love it. Ran no plate for a while but worried a lil with towing on EGT's.

 

a zero full forward is like running plateless. i ran a #6 for years until this last turbo upgrade.

 

Running plateless vs Running w/ #0 plate full forward is different...

i should know mine coughed up extra 40hp on the dyno....

 

which one gave you the 40 hp?

 

I say go for a ten. I think egts are going to be a little on hot side with your weight if ya go with a 100 or zero running a stock charger.

 

running plateless compared to running with a #0 full forward...

 

I ended up getting a #10 fuel plate, and will put a 4" exhaust on soon

 

if you want more..... get gauges first...