this isnt a real big horse power thing but I heard it helps everything work together better if you have the stock turbo where the waste gate has the hole in the side of the outlet drill a hole through the center section because it only waste gates half of the turbo. one thing I have learned is do not do the free gsk swap its not worth the trouble.

 

Why no more than 35#'s of boost?

 

Boost pressure is relative to turbo rpm and depending on your location (altitude) 35ish has been accepted as the ceiling for safe turbo rpm's. Notwithstanding, any more pressure than that and you lose boost efficiency because of compression heat from the HX35. There are those that boast 40, 45, and 50 psi out of their 35's, but don't listen to them. Sure the turbo will make it if you spin it fast enough, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know the danger zone you're in. at 35 psi, that turbo is spinning 130,000 rpm...by the map anyway, and at 40 it's cooking along at 145,000. The highest efficiency for the HX35 occurs at 24 psi, which funny enough, is about where they size it at for the 5.9. Push it harder, and the laws of diminishing returns start to encroach upon you.

 

So over 24psi is a waist with the HX35?
Really then about 32psi you should get a bigger turbo right?

 

Drilling the banjo's on a 12v is a complete waste of time.The stockers are used on way more trucks over the 600hp frame than one realizes.If your going to go down that route you may as well just go aftermarket with your fuel system.

 

iv got a 97, with a 215 pump. i pull a 35 foot trailer and i was thinking of going to a #100 plate. i was wondering how bad will that kill my milage??? and what can i do to get my hx35 up to around 25psi. will the plate do that because a guy told me he did the #0 plate and it put him up to around 35 to 40psi ???

 

get a boost elbow i got one for 40 from a shop on here but saw it on ebay foe 20 free shipping

 

you payed how much for a boost elbow? im sorry i have to on my work bench in the shop you could have had

 

ildsmokey97 would you recommend clamping that hose or would not be a good idea

 

- drill 15/16" through both volutes on the exhaust housing
- boost regulated to 35psi
- stock airbox with 3" hole will be fine (or a clamp-on filter...either way)
- grid heater delete w/handmade intake horn
- 3000 rpm shim modification
- 4" downpipe
- TC lockup switch/adjust bands to spec
- WEIGHT LOSS PROGRAM
- grind fuel plate to a flat "0" profile, put it full forward
- contrary to popular opinion, adjust the AFC tension to get the best boost response from your setup - the more fueling mods you have the tighter the spring will probably need to be.


something also on the "cheap"-
- injectors (extrude honed)
- larger exhaust housing on the turbo