Engine Knock - Diesel Bombers



5.9 Liter CR Dodge Cummins 03-07 Discussion of 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Common Rail Injection

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Old 02-07-2011, 11:26 PM
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Default Engine Knock

My motor developed a knocking sound that used to just be at idle and now it is getting worse. I took it to the shop and they said it sounds like a burnt valve and would cost $750 labor, $400 for headwork, $200 for head studs and $350 for a new head gasket with shims. Does this sound reasonable or should I just buy a new head with ARP studs and do it myself?

The truck just clicked over 121k, injectors were replaced and valve lash adjusted at 114K shortly after the knock started. I change my oil every 5k with Rotella, but recently I noticed the oil filter is only half full and no oil comes out when I take it off. Maybe a good flush would get more oil into the valve train and it might stop? It runs fine and has plenty of power. Could it harm anything else if I keep running it?

I wanted to get some opinions before I give the shop all that money or buy a new head. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:23 PM
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You sure your not loosing an injector?
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:50 PM
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Did the knock go away and then come back when you replaced the injectors? Or just stay the same?
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:16 PM
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Drop a valve seat? Where any valves way out of adjustment? Do it yourself send the head out for rebuild with the better seats and buy a set of studs and be done with it!
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:52 AM
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Sorry guys I was on the road with no wifi...

Quote:
Originally Posted by gosperformance View Post
You sure your not loosing an injector?

The truck rund fine and they were just replaced. Had a shop run an injection test with their snap on computer and everything is good.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

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Originally Posted by Lil Red Express View Post
Did the knock go away and then come back when you replaced the injectors? Or just stay the same?
It has stayed the same, but getting progressively worse as I go.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

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Originally Posted by dangerous1965 View Post
Drop a valve seat? Where any valves way out of adjustment? Do it yourself send the head out for rebuild with the better seats and buy a set of studs and be done with it!
How would I know if I dropped a valve seat? Everything was in adjustment. I checked it cold per the instructions posted by superdave. Know any good shops that do head work around PA? What about the cost for the headgasket, shims and difficulty to install if you have to shim it?

Last edited by hydroshok; 02-10-2011 at 09:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:14 PM
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How can I tell the difference between a rod knocking, an injector going bad, and just the normal running of the engine? I see all these posts, but not sure how to tell the difference.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:20 PM
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Make I quick video of it and upload it to this thread.
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:33 PM
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What part of Pa are you in?
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:53 PM
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[]What part of Pa are you in?[/quote]

I'm north of Pittsburgh.


I took the truck to the better diesel shop which is unfortunately further away for me, but they said it sounded like an exhaust valve not opening correctly. They prefer to check the valve lash hot, or they got used to doing it that way. I'm not sure exactly, but the #1 and #2 exhaust valves were loose. They tightened it up and I was good to go. Bye bye knock.

Now I wonder if they got loose on me or if it is better to check it hot because everything has just been moving. I'm not an expert, but I did the valve lash myself. Out of 12 I adjusted the exact same way, two were loose. I don't know if they can loosen up or if hot vs cold makes a difference, but I took my time and adjusted each one the same. Any thoughts?

Last edited by hydroshok; 02-12-2011 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:32 PM
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If you did it for the first time not bad! If they adjust them hot the adjustment lash will be different than cold. If you know what your doing you can do it in 30 min or less! Glad it was an easy fix!
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