INSTALLING A NEW VALVE BODY
#1
#2
Easy.
Remove the electrical connector on top, along with the Throttle Valve and Range selector levers.
Remove the Pan. Unless he has an aftermarket pan, this will be messy. I use the Black tubs used for tile saws to drain transmissions with stock pans.
Remove the filter. This is a T25 Torx if memory serves.
Remove the 10 Valve Body to case bolts. These are 7/16" heads I think. There are 3 different length bolts and it is kinda obvious which ones go where.
Lower the VB, keeping in mind the park rod is still attached and that the accumulator piston and spring will probably fall out.
Remove the "C" clip on the park rod at the range selector lever.
Remove Valve body.
Reverse the operation to install. Torque the new VB to 100 in lbs.
If you have trouble getting the C clip back on the park rod, you can just pull the park rod out. Make sure the Park Brake is set solid, and you should not have any issues reinstalling the park rod into the park pawl. IF you have a problem getting the park rod back into the park pawl, chock the front tires and release the brake, then jack up the rear enough to rotate the driveline and line the park pawl back up. With 2 people this is super easy.
If you get confused, just call me. I am not far from ya!
Remove the electrical connector on top, along with the Throttle Valve and Range selector levers.
Remove the Pan. Unless he has an aftermarket pan, this will be messy. I use the Black tubs used for tile saws to drain transmissions with stock pans.
Remove the filter. This is a T25 Torx if memory serves.
Remove the 10 Valve Body to case bolts. These are 7/16" heads I think. There are 3 different length bolts and it is kinda obvious which ones go where.
Lower the VB, keeping in mind the park rod is still attached and that the accumulator piston and spring will probably fall out.
Remove the "C" clip on the park rod at the range selector lever.
Remove Valve body.
Reverse the operation to install. Torque the new VB to 100 in lbs.
If you have trouble getting the C clip back on the park rod, you can just pull the park rod out. Make sure the Park Brake is set solid, and you should not have any issues reinstalling the park rod into the park pawl. IF you have a problem getting the park rod back into the park pawl, chock the front tires and release the brake, then jack up the rear enough to rotate the driveline and line the park pawl back up. With 2 people this is super easy.
If you get confused, just call me. I am not far from ya!
#3
Thank you Jason... how long of a job is it
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AutoMerged DoublePost
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Update on the install- was really easy job for two guys that have no experience with trans work took us about 3 hrs. i think we spent more time rereading the instructions then turning wrenches... test drive went very well, we are getting very nice solid shifts and even upshifts at very low speeds (something my second gen. doesn't do) my buddy says the turbo has a lot less lag off the line, and at full lock up around 45, says it feels like a different truck very impressed with the sun coast products
»»»»»»»»»»»««««««««««««
AutoMerged DoublePost
»»»»»»»»»»»««««««««««««
Update on the install- was really easy job for two guys that have no experience with trans work took us about 3 hrs. i think we spent more time rereading the instructions then turning wrenches... test drive went very well, we are getting very nice solid shifts and even upshifts at very low speeds (something my second gen. doesn't do) my buddy says the turbo has a lot less lag off the line, and at full lock up around 45, says it feels like a different truck very impressed with the sun coast products
Last edited by Cameron; 07-08-2007 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#4
You also have to take a couple parts off the top of the stock VB and and put them on the new one. You will get a lot of fluid once you start loosening the VB. It will go all over the place too. Be prepared for a mess. I usually spread some cardboard out to catch the fluid. The whole process should only take an hour or two...
#5
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