about 2 months back got under 1/8th tank, since then nothing but trouble getting it started when the engine was warm, now it doesn't want to start cold either. Changed all filters, air filter had some oil blow back on it, just read a thread about a ticking noise under valve cover when ignition is in the "on" position, but not running, I hear this sound but thought it was normal, also tried replacing fca but no help to starting, better idle but that's it. I unhooked the grid heater so I can get it a small kick of ether without blowing up the intake. Seems as though its losing its prime, any thoughts advive would be greatly appreciated, Thanks Tony https://www.dieselbombers.com/images/smilies/dash2.gif

 

Have you validated you have good constant pressure to the CP-3 fuel inlet? ALWAYS the first step.

As long as the LP is working these system never loose prime, they can't. A slow start can be traced to a weal or bad LP or bad injectors. The rail MUST build 3000 psi or the ECU will fire the injectors. Worn injectors frequently will not allow pressure to build at cranking rpm.

You need injectors tested or a return flow test done on the truck if you have good LP pressure.

 

I will be able to get it to the mechanics house tomorrow he is going to plug in the snap on computer and see what we can find with fuel pressures and an injector balance test, hope to find its lp and not injectors, any thoughts on the ticking sound under the valve cover area, it sounds like an ignitor on a gas stove

 

The ticking is normal, it is injector 1 and 6 cycling to bleed air and pressure out the rail on startup. The CR system is self bleeding and self priming. Run an cylinder contribution test to get the balance, an injector kill test and watcht the rpm drop as each cylinder is killed. It won't tell you if they are bypassing too much fuel but if they are way off it is an indication the injectors are pooched.

 

Wasn't able to get real fancy with testing, but when we tried starting the engine wanted 2000+/- psi and it didn't go above 1050+/- so wouldn't fire, is it safe to assume it's time for a new lp or should I still do the volume test through filter housing, thanks again for your time and input

 

Nope, if you have fuel at the CP-3 it will usually start. Check pressure with a cheap gauge from AutoZone to be sure but my guess is if it will start and run on starting fluid of some kind it is injectors. Return flow would be the next test.

 

ok I forgot to mention yesterday that it has been zero and below for the last couple weeks here, yesterday morning I had to start with either drove the truck 2 hours, shut it off and it sat for 8 hours, it finally warmed up to 20 in the afternoon, the truck started on its own, so I was wondering if maybe the failing lp I suspectwas able to make pressure with the thinner fuel at the warmer temp, also if I get it going and shut it off warm it will not start up again till it basically cools off, Im going to work today will find out if it will start on its own again, its suppose to be near 30 today, I read on a forum somewhere that a failing lp will usually not start again when warm, but then again Im no professional when it comes to these diesel engines, gonnna do a volume test tonight when its warm and see what it will do, also when we put the computer on last night at idle the fp was 6500-7200 and 19000 at load it said the fp not sure if it was talking about injection or lift but it was only reading 1 amp idle or loaded, not sure if any of this would make it seem more like a lp but I guess that's what im hoping because that's about all I can afford for now, I do plan on having the injectors done soon just need to clear up some room on the credit card, was planning on sending them out to industrial inj. about $310 a piece any thoughts on that too? Thanks and sorry to keep bugging you with my problems

 

Hard starts cold but fine when plugged in is usually an injector problem. Also, if you aren't running anti-gell additives and extra lube do it ASAP. At those temps if there is ANY contamination in the fuel like water it will cause the filter to start plugging. Even then the wax settling out raise havoc without some good additives.

Hard start warm is almost always injectors or cross over tubes. You might re-torque the cross over tubes and get by for a while but it always seems to come back to hard starts if the injectors are bad.

If you want no problems in the future, go new on the injectors. Costs more but the results are usually a lot better. Remans are a crap shoot.

 

Ok thanks again for all your help I will see about volume test and post results, how do you do s return flow test

 

You have to isolate the return flow from the head gallery and route it into a graduated cannister to read the volume of fuel returned. At an idle with the engine warm that should be in the 80-120 cc's in 30 seconds IIRC. The way Cummins and Dodge test requires rpm set at 1200 and 20k fuel pressure for 30 seconds and it should 180-220 cc's, takes a Dodge controller to do that so it is a lot harder.

Miller makes a tool that is nothing but a fitting to isolate the fuel gallery return from the rail and CP-3, or, you have to find the line from the rear of the head and isolate it to get true readings.