leaking front crank seal
#11
thanks for the reply guys, just got truck in and dissembled yesterday, busy week last week, I will spend today cleaning parts, a couple more questions before i reassemble, I cleaned crank off with brake clean and polished with emery cloth, just had to black marks where it looked like seal was riding, there is one groove about a 1/4 inch back from front of shaft, kind of looks like it was machined that way, Do I need to be concerned about that? Also on putting back together Do I install seal in cover then put it on engine or is cover installed then seal put in with alignment tool. I got seal kit from NAPA it came with seal and what looks like a metal cover and the plastic alignment tool.
#12
I can't answer on the groove since I can't see it but if it is too much or too deep it may not seal well. My crank snout looked very good (smooth, no groove) and needed nothing and has not leaked a drop in the weeks since changed (fingers crossed).
The seal goes into the cover first and the metal ring is used to set it in place at the proper depth. The seal is installed on the crank DRY. An FYI on actually sliding everything together. A third hand would have been very helpful to get everything lined up straight. If you don't, the seal lip will slip into the crack between the crank and the adapter sleeve and turn back on itself and be ruined. DAMHIK.
I called my cuz who used to be the shop foreman @ Portland Freightliner and asked him about it and he didn't recall any trouble. We finally decided it must have not been square. I asked about pushing the sleeve into the seal and leave it for a while to stretch it out a bit. That and very carefully making sure it slid on square was ultimately successful. It was obvious when it was right by the way it slid very nicely into place which it did not do with the turned back lip.
The seal goes into the cover first and the metal ring is used to set it in place at the proper depth. The seal is installed on the crank DRY. An FYI on actually sliding everything together. A third hand would have been very helpful to get everything lined up straight. If you don't, the seal lip will slip into the crack between the crank and the adapter sleeve and turn back on itself and be ruined. DAMHIK.
I called my cuz who used to be the shop foreman @ Portland Freightliner and asked him about it and he didn't recall any trouble. We finally decided it must have not been square. I asked about pushing the sleeve into the seal and leave it for a while to stretch it out a bit. That and very carefully making sure it slid on square was ultimately successful. It was obvious when it was right by the way it slid very nicely into place which it did not do with the turned back lip.
#13
well, I screwed up my new seal, I went by the instructions on putting cover on first loosely, with sealant, and slipping new seal over crank with plastic install tool, and when seal is set tighten cover, well I didn't get seal in square and bent it and screwed up the outer part of seal, I went ahead and tightened cover since it had sealant on it, hopefully I wont have to remove it to get new seal in again. I also had to do the speedi sleeve cuz the crank was grooved to bad, Just hope i can get a new seal without having to get the whole kit, Does any one know how to get that seal on without having to take cover back off,
#14
I've only done one on a 5.9 Cummins. I got one from NAPA, and I believe another from Cummins. The NAPA one a joke in comparison. The Cummins one came with a plastic install tool that works amazing. It does require the cover to come off though. I'll try to get a picture up of it later today.
#15
Here the tool I had great success with, it came with the seal. The hole in the center sits on the nub on the end of the crank. Once the seal is in the front cover, the cover with seal slides right on. The tool is tapered so the seal expands as it goes on, then fits snug on the crank. If you can find on of these, it will go very easy. My NAPA kit was damaged when I opened it, and it also looked more complicated then this very simple tool.
Last edited by RAW; 06-14-2012 at 02:52 PM. Reason: NAPS, not NAPS. Oops
#16
o.k so I went to cummins dealer today, told him I screwed up the seal, asked for a replacement and told him that I have the speedi sleeve installed, and need the same seal, Well I took cover back off, installed seal through the back side of cover and used the depth ring everything went good. then I checked the plastic alignment sleeve and it does not fit over speedi sleeve on crank, My question now is the seal with the normal cummins kit compatible with the speedi sleeve, this simple 2 -3 hour project is turning into a nightmare, ( kind of wishing I hired this job out), not that I am not mechanically inclined, heck I have installed the injection pump, re did the fuel system, rebuilt front end, installed tranny but nothing has given me trouble like this seal One idea I have is to cut the plastic sleeve so it will expand over speedi sleeve, any ideas would be helpful, I did measure the seal I screwed up to the new one I installed and there is a differance about the thickness of speedi sleeve
#17
I've only done one on a 5.9 Cummins. I got one from NAPA, and I believe another from Cummins. The NAPA one a joke in comparison. The Cummins one came with a plastic install tool that works amazing. It does require the cover to come off though. I'll try to get a picture up of it later today.
#18
#19
Here the tool I had great success with, it came with the seal. The hole in the center sits on the nub on the end of the crank. Once the seal is in the front cover, the cover with seal slides right on. The tool is tapered so the seal expands as it goes on, then fits snug on the crank. If you can find on of these, it will go very easy. My NAPA kit was damaged when I opened it, and it also looked more complicated then this very simple tool.
#20
that sleeve looks a lot more ridged than the cheap one you get in the kit, mine broke when I tried to install the first time, I had to use the sliced up credit card trick when I reinstalled the seal. I ended up using the original seal that came with speedi, it wasn't tore, just a little bent on the outside, straightened up when pressed back in, anyway fired it up and no leaks also learned you cant use factory size seal with speedi, just way to tight