Full 4" exhaust with Header will be my last mod for the winter/spring.

I have been reading about both the Edge CTS and Quadzilla not sure which one would be best for me. The truck isn't fast with 4.10's and a six speed, but it tows awesome. I had also heard that the HO pumps don't respond as well to "chips", but I would like one anyways so at least I could have an all in one gauge. I was looking into the setup that would work with my phone, but my business partner uses my truck alot to go get steel or deliver completed vehicles (we build offroad stuff, and roundy round cars; http://redlinelandcruisers.com). Its going to need something with more static gauges.


Next winter I want to install an overdrive 4.10's tow great, but the motor is just to wound up to go any faster than 70 when unloaded/lightly loaded for extended amounts of time...

This winter was getting the steering tightened up. Put on late model Mopar draglink and tie rod, 3rd gen steering box, Borgesson steering shaft, ball joints, and selectable hubs. Truck drives very nice now with almost no wondering (almost stays in its own lane; hehe) and finally has one handed driving...

Did you get the steering box/pitman arm support brace? They are amazing! The big problem isn't the pieces parts but the fact that the steer box flexes the frame. The brace fixes that.

Don't know about HO pumps but I did hear similarly that they make less power when modded then the SO

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I had one on my old box before I replaced it with the 3rd gen box, now it obviously doesn't fit. Need to pull that thing back out cut off the old box mount and build a new one...

Well got the new lines and transfer tubes in and still couldn't get the leaking to stop on 1 & 4... So I took it to a local diesel shop on Friday morning (quite a punch to my pride), but I was up till 2 AM Thursday night trying to get it to stop leaking and didn't succeed...

Tech talked to me after picking the truck up and asked about how I had cleaned the lines after bleeding which I didnt do...
Since I have never bled down a 24 valve before didn't know that after you bleed them and get them started you have to go back and clean and dry the lines you previously bled now that the other three lines have fuel the truck will start on them...:argh:

If the lines and retainers are clean when you install them, they'll be clean after you bleed them. If there is enough contamination in the pump or lines to cause a line not to seal you have other issues present. Did you clean the area before starting on the job to begin with?

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I agree with you seems like if the lines are leaking and its a feral it should just require additional torq (as long as there isn't crud in the fitting). I also cracked the leaking lines with it running and re torqued thinking that if there was some junk in the feral it should get flushed out...

I cleaned everything with brake clean then blew it out with air before attempting to assemble. The tech's explanation makes sense to me as it was always one of the lines I had bled that leaked... The tech also stated that at the shop they don't bleed trucks from the lines they clean the transfer tubes and lines install them dry and then just crank on the engine until it starts...

Also although I am very mechanically inclined this is the first time I have ever done anything on a cummins other than replace seals etc..., I also dont have any buddies that are into diesels either so I was kinda flying blind (other than the web)...

I vote the tech tightened till it quit leaking lol

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You could be right, I asked the tech how fixed it and he told me that he cleaned, dried, then re torqued. I asked him what they set them at since the guy at the front desk told me they weren't tight enough even though I had them at 28 ft lbs. He said he just uses a "box wrench tight"... Jokes probably on me but I sure as hell couldn't get the thing to stop leaking and I dont have a-lot of time working on these motors. That and really didn't want to damage brand new injectors... Learning the expensive way sucks...