My 01 HO Dually
 

Its a tow bitch that has worked hard for the last 7 years, however I would like to modify it now...
Just installed a AD165 and a BDP sump, have been working on installing an intake and RV275 injectors, but I have been fighting a leak at the #1 and #4 high pressure lines...

After taking it back apart I have been able to get #4 to stop leaking however #1 is still a problem.

After doing some research found out that its common for the O-rings to be problematic once they get old so pulled it all back apart last night while I wait for the new O-rings to come in...

Also adding a new valve cover gasket because the old one was a gusher, has taken longer to cleanup than to do the actual work...

#1 weeping
Attachment 38777

After getting it all back together the first time...
Attachment 38778

Later style transfer tubes...
Attachment 38779

1,2,4 HP lines after cleanup
Attachment 38780

3,5,6 HP lines after cleanup
Attachment 38781

How it sits as of last night awaiting new O-rings
Attachment 38782

If you see anything wrong let me know, although I have owned this truck for a long time it has just been used for work...

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Now I am miffed, put all new O-rings on the transfer tubes (with grease) and 1-4 are now weeping and I cant get them to stop. I torqued all the fittings to 28 ftlbs, when they started leaking I loosened them up reseated the line and still it leaks. Any ideas on what to look at next?????

I dont know what to think...

Bad lines maybe

Luke

If there are rubber o-rings you can take them out and boil them in a pot of water not very long, just till they get bubbles on the o-rings, regrease them and put them back in. i have had great luck with this trick but havent used them on injector lines. its worth a shot.

I am going to take every thing apart again tonight and clean it, then I'll try to slightly over torque the fittings. I used a torque wrench to set them all originally so I'll torque them again then give it a little more...

Weird thing is that I have had this thing apart twice and 5,6 have had no leaks (using my torque wrench)... Conversely 1 & 4 have leaked both times, now I can add 2 & 3 to the problem...



This is very frustrating, but I am getting good at removing and installing the lines...

It can be a pain but as I told ya, rarely will you see a line that wont seal back with some work. Call me back if you need help.

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Thanks for talking with me, I have been looking at the pictures I posted above and it looks like there might actually be a line/ridge on the feral. I cleaned the tips with a scotch brite and the injector side of the tips had a bunch of corrosion that was removed.

In the above pictures it appears that there may be a line/ridge just a little bit down from the tip...

Is the fitting supposed to be a smooth taper from the tip to the shoulder? I'll go pickup some emery cloth also....

In the perfect world there would be no ridge but in the real world you'll often seen one lol
The reality is, at some point a tech that didnt care to pay attention to torque specs grabbed a 19MM and went at your injection lines.
The lines are softer than the connector tube so when over torqued a couple things can happen, one being the ridge your seeing or two being a fracture between the line and feral or taper.
Heck , For the most part 1 in 4 trucks will have a ridge. There is no best method for dealing with it and each line may require a different solution.
The most common solution we've found in our shop is to lightly clean the line tip with a very fine abrasive and increase torque gradually until seal is achieved. In no way do I condone the of tightening of any fastener but in some cases it's over tighten or replace the lines.
No fear, The lines will still be serviceable after over tightening but you'll want to take into account that you've previously over tightened them.

I wouldn't exceed 40 Ft-lbs on the lines, 40 seems to be the point of no return. Above 40Ftlbs you can actually cause damage to the injectors or further damage to the lines. However I've seen hundreds of these trucks that I needed a bar on my wrench to get them loose, and it resulted in line damage - but no injector damage.
If it continues I would consider new lines. I will mention however than its extremely rare to need replacement lines because of this issue, In most cases it can be resolved.

Dang... I WAY over tightened mine then!! I used German torque spec on them GoodenTyte... After this thread im surprised they dont leak badly!

You said you installed an Airdog 165? Is that a pump AND filter? IF so, i saw your stock filter can in there.... Did you bypass it when you installed the lift pump?

Do you have a tuner on there?

Alright took it back apart in less than an hour was looking at the lines and there is definitely a ridge on the injector side of the lines, and two of the lines are fractured 5 & 2. Kinda weird because 5 never leaked, and 2 only leaked after putting in the new o-rings. (go figure)

Ridges on all but #6 are big enough to feel with a finger nail, before I started sanding I took a look at the transfer tubes. Gently ran a dental pick across them and they have a definite indentation in them as well, but its not in a full circle. After looking at the transfer tubes my only conclusion is that it wore down on the bottom (gravity side?).

Not really sure how this happened as I have never taken this truck apart before however I didn't buy it new. Can lines wear from age along with the transfer tubes, or did somebody over tighten it along the way (now that I think about it I did loose an injection pump one week after I bought the truck 7+ years ago; freaked out and took it to a local shop as I knew nothing about diesels at the time)? I have been building gas engines since I was a teenager, however the diesel was very new to me at the time, originally bought this truck as a donor engine to replaced the 454 in my 76 K30 3+3. After driving this truck for a week I decided to keep this one and sold my restored K30...

Other thing that is weird is this truck never leaked fuel before I tried to install the new injectors. I'll chock it up to my luck.

After mulling it over for while and talking to a couple buddies I decided to call Sheid and get some fresh lines,transfer tubes, and o-rings. They will be here late next week... Guy on the phone told me to go with .083 lines so that is whats coming. He assured me that there would be no run issues...

On a side note when I pulled the transfer tubes they were very clean past the o-rings so it was needing those anyways....


Yes I bypassed the original stuff, but left it in place with the ends bagged since I figure it would get me home in a jam. Threw the injection pump fittings in a bag under the back seat would be easy to switch out on the side of the road if I had to...

Don't have a tuner on it yet, however one will be on probably in May'ish. I am not after ultimate power in this truck just want it to tow better in the mountains. It would be nice to have gauges out of it as well so whichever tuner I get will have those incorporated... Right now I just gear down were its balanced between transmission load and letting the motor not push as hard since I dont know what egt's are comming down the pipe. I work the truck hard however I dont rail it. With a 40' goose or a 3 car wedge I am plugging along in the slow lane I just dont push it...

Placed the sump right under the original pickup since its now the return...
Attachment 38749

Borked two 1.375 holes in the frame about 3"s apart then connected the dots. Spent some quality time on a die grinder smoothing the edges down. Then slid an industrial high pressure hydraulic line over the suction line to protect it from chaffing...
Attachment 38750

Then mounted the pump inside the frame to keep as much road gunk off of it as possible...
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Nice setup! You did a nice job by keeping the line safe!

A tuner would be a nice touch, plus the nicer combos come with gauge feedback. The Quadzilla series even can use your Phone or Droid as a display!
The other thing I suggest seeing that your gonna add fuel and boost is to get a BIG exhaust to help keep the EGT down. Maybe a pulse manifold too. I ended up getting PAID to buy my pulse manifold... Got it here used then sold my mint stock one on ebay for more money then I paid for the ATS! Keep your eyes open in the for sale section.

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Full 4" exhaust with Header will be my last mod for the winter/spring.

I have been reading about both the Edge CTS and Quadzilla not sure which one would be best for me. The truck isn't fast with 4.10's and a six speed, but it tows awesome. I had also heard that the HO pumps don't respond as well to "chips", but I would like one anyways so at least I could have an all in one gauge. I was looking into the setup that would work with my phone, but my business partner uses my truck alot to go get steel or deliver completed vehicles (we build offroad stuff, and roundy round cars; http://redlinelandcruisers.com). Its going to need something with more static gauges.


Next winter I want to install an overdrive 4.10's tow great, but the motor is just to wound up to go any faster than 70 when unloaded/lightly loaded for extended amounts of time...

This winter was getting the steering tightened up. Put on late model Mopar draglink and tie rod, 3rd gen steering box, Borgesson steering shaft, ball joints, and selectable hubs. Truck drives very nice now with almost no wondering (almost stays in its own lane; hehe) and finally has one handed driving...

Did you get the steering box/pitman arm support brace? They are amazing! The big problem isn't the pieces parts but the fact that the steer box flexes the frame. The brace fixes that.

Don't know about HO pumps but I did hear similarly that they make less power when modded then the SO

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I had one on my old box before I replaced it with the 3rd gen box, now it obviously doesn't fit. Need to pull that thing back out cut off the old box mount and build a new one...

Well got the new lines and transfer tubes in and still couldn't get the leaking to stop on 1 & 4... So I took it to a local diesel shop on Friday morning (quite a punch to my pride), but I was up till 2 AM Thursday night trying to get it to stop leaking and didn't succeed...

Tech talked to me after picking the truck up and asked about how I had cleaned the lines after bleeding which I didnt do...
Since I have never bled down a 24 valve before didn't know that after you bleed them and get them started you have to go back and clean and dry the lines you previously bled now that the other three lines have fuel the truck will start on them...:argh:

If the lines and retainers are clean when you install them, they'll be clean after you bleed them. If there is enough contamination in the pump or lines to cause a line not to seal you have other issues present. Did you clean the area before starting on the job to begin with?

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I agree with you seems like if the lines are leaking and its a feral it should just require additional torq (as long as there isn't crud in the fitting). I also cracked the leaking lines with it running and re torqued thinking that if there was some junk in the feral it should get flushed out...

I cleaned everything with brake clean then blew it out with air before attempting to assemble. The tech's explanation makes sense to me as it was always one of the lines I had bled that leaked... The tech also stated that at the shop they don't bleed trucks from the lines they clean the transfer tubes and lines install them dry and then just crank on the engine until it starts...

Also although I am very mechanically inclined this is the first time I have ever done anything on a cummins other than replace seals etc..., I also dont have any buddies that are into diesels either so I was kinda flying blind (other than the web)...

I vote the tech tightened till it quit leaking lol

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You could be right, I asked the tech how fixed it and he told me that he cleaned, dried, then re torqued. I asked him what they set them at since the guy at the front desk told me they weren't tight enough even though I had them at 28 ft lbs. He said he just uses a "box wrench tight"... Jokes probably on me but I sure as hell couldn't get the thing to stop leaking and I dont have a-lot of time working on these motors. That and really didn't want to damage brand new injectors... Learning the expensive way sucks...