Now that its cold out i noticed that my wait to start light isnt coming on AT ALL. Not during the first key cycle or if i sit and wait for a WHILE after that (some said theirs came on late). I also dont have a fuel pump prime cycle when you bump the key. Rather then the 26 second run i get 3 grunts out of the pump. The relay fires with the same 3 grunts... I tried 2 different relays that are KNOWN good ones. All the same thing. Its a AirDog system and it runs PERFECT at 15psi at WOT except for this issue!! So i KNOW its not the pump. What the heck would cause this? Right now the block heater is saving my bacon because i have no idea if the grid heater is coming on or not... I am almost positive it does AFTER START. Ill know for sure tomorrow when i go to start it. You can tell when its running because it HAMMERS the power consumption and pulls down the charge.
Any help? Leaving work is HELL because the truck cools down by then. It was a NIGHTMARE getting it to start the other day when it was like 20* out!!

 

Some ecms did this some did not.usually a bad ground or internal issue.

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Ill check out the grounds, never know. Although the truck was a southern truck and is like 99% rust free so I don't think any grounds rotted off or anything like that.

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check your wire to temp snsr. and check your data stream for coolant temp to see if either are in question. check all fuses and fuse links to grid heater relays...good luck pt

 

My comment was in regards to the list pump. I would clean pcm and ecm external grounds.

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I will check the sensors... I check the data on my Pulse monitor and it displayed coolant temp and IAT correctly yesterday after work.... it sits out all day with no plug in so it has a chance to get cold. I will verify today though!
It DID throw a code this morning though... Last night I switched my ADD tune from the 3k series to the ADRCOMP series as I was suggested to cure a surging under acceleration issue I was having. I bumped the starter this morning to check for prime... same 3 grunts. No wait light. However when I did start it (started right up due to being plugged in) it threw a code... it has NEVER thrown a check engine code ever before. I will check that tonight also. Need to get my buddies scanner.

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Well guys...

My #1 grid heater relay was fried so i did the Ford Starter relay replacement... HOWEVER...

EPIC FAILS ABOUND

The #1 still wont work, #2 works perfectly while she is running. I still have NO check engine light.
Even though i have no light and all my temp sensors read ok (cold as hell reading on Pulse monitor and cold as hell outside) I still have no wait to start light.
With my buddies SOLUS scan tool i CAN run BOTH grid relays perfect. I also can run the wait to start light!

NEW problem...
I have absolutly NO prime from the transfer pump anymore. Nothing when i bump the starter! However... On the SOLUS i CAN run the transfer pump and get a FULL 15psi reading!!

So... WTF? Is my ECU dead?

I now have a dead truck... I drove it to the store and that was it. No start, no prime, nada when i went to leave!

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So get this...

with NO wait to start light i can go into the SOLUS scanner and force it on to test it. After i do that i can cycle the key and the light WORKS... As many times as i cycle key it comes on HOWEVER... If i bump or crank.... GONE never works again after that?!!??!

 

I feel you have a ground issue. Could be a failing ecm. I would check computer ground to battery ground resistance, and verify the ecm has 12v

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Ground is good to go. Both batteries are rocking. Has new cables. Ground is perfect though... the truck is MINT for 190k... 0 rust anywhere...

it figures though because I JUST spent 1500$ to have EVERY ding, dent, bu,p, crease, scratch, and chip repaired on it. It looks like it just came off the showroom floor.... but now it doesn't run. :mad: :banghead:

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What's ecm and pcm ground circuit resistance to ground?

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