Intermittent problem.
At steady cruise on level ground w or w/o cruise control set, trans jumps in and out of lockup. Does it at any speed from under 45 to as high as 65.
Doesn't matter if I'm towing my 4000# trailer or running empty. Engine temp doesn't matter.
Fresh start or operating temp. Outside temp also has no bearing. Happens summer (95+degrees) or winter (low teens).
It can go a year with no issues and suddenly it starts acting up. May jump in and out twice per second for the whole day or just every once in a while. Then it just goes away. Sometimes if I floor it for a second or two and then let the pedal up to idle it will cure it for a little while. Sometimes not.
I remember an article in TDR from some time back (no longer a member) that said wrap the alternator wire from the battery with aluminum foil and electrical tape. I tried that years ago and not sure if it helped.
I've checked the TSBs and recalls. Nothing relevant.
I'm stumped.

 

Try this it worked for me.

APPS Reset Procedure
Answer: This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.

1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake

Let me know if it works for you!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I also found a link to a fix which appears to work well and fixes the problem permanently and can be done by a novice wrench turner. It places a noise filter in a strategic place with a few simple connections, cost is $27.21 shipped. The link gives you complete intructions and another link to order the filter and also includes some very convincing testimonials.

Dodge Ram Cummins 24V Truck Converter Clutch Cycling Repair.

 

I had the same problem with my 99 all you have to do is run to large grounds one from each battery to the engine I went to the alternator bracket with 6 gague speaker ground wire. it is a frequency problem under the hood from the turbo that causes your converter to slip in and out. that usually corrects the problem. if not 60 bucks for a freq. canceller

 

You could try this, it's a very inexpensive procedure.

 

I had the same problem with my 02. I tried the reset, noise filter, extra grounds, ect. not to say these are bad ideas, it just didn't work for me. What I did finally notice was if I had the a/c or defrost on it wouldn't stay locked, turn these off and it would. I had the a/c checked and it was very low on freon, filled it up and haven't had the problem since. I talked to others about this, and they said the compressor was kicking in an out alot due to low freon and possilbly was sending voltage spikes. Just a suggestion. Hope you get it fixed.

 

Unfortunately the truck doesn't sit still very much. I'm going to start with the simplest first. It's just sooo hot right now. Maybe next week I can corral it from the wife for a couple of hours.
I know it's not the A/C. I just had it vacuumed down and recharged a few weeks ago. At least that works well now.

 

How much was that to have your ac done?

 

Ran about $175.00. Funny thing is they couldn't find a leak. It just started getting a little warmer as things went along. I was surprised that it only took 2# of "fake" freon.
In the old days with R-12 in a full size car, it took 4-5.

 

speed sensor in tranny? cleaned up my batt terminals real good n sprayed em. prob went away.