INJECTORS
#4
Fairly simple job. If you've got over 100k miles or so, go ahead and adjust the valves while you're in there.
Tip: The tops of the injectors are threaded, so you can screw in one of the valve cover bolts. use a small open end wrench laid across a rocker for leverage to pop the injector out. Use your free hand and a flat screwdriver to GENTLY pry the injector tube out of the head WHILE you are applying pressure to the bolt in the inector. GENTLY...
Also, a 19mm crowsfoot will come in handy to torque the tube nuts back in place. if you don't get the torque real close, the lines will leak.
Take your time... it's a fun and rewarding job.
Tip: The tops of the injectors are threaded, so you can screw in one of the valve cover bolts. use a small open end wrench laid across a rocker for leverage to pop the injector out. Use your free hand and a flat screwdriver to GENTLY pry the injector tube out of the head WHILE you are applying pressure to the bolt in the inector. GENTLY...
Also, a 19mm crowsfoot will come in handy to torque the tube nuts back in place. if you don't get the torque real close, the lines will leak.
Take your time... it's a fun and rewarding job.
The following users liked this post:
cummincrazy (02-05-2008)
#5
Andy hit it on the head. 19mm or 3/4 crowfoot is helpful. Really though, its the connector tubes that are the more critical torque. The connector tubes are what actually seals against the injector body. Torque the connector tubes to 35 ft lbs. Its a 24mm or 15/16.
Not a hard job at all. Just take your time and enjoy some personal time with your truck!
Not a hard job at all. Just take your time and enjoy some personal time with your truck!
The following 2 users liked this post by Diesel Nut:
AndyMan (12-17-2007),
cummincrazy (02-05-2008)
#6
You've obviously done it more recently than I have!
I think we're talking about the same part... at least i hope so. The tube that connects the injector body to the VP line is connected with a single nut (if memory serves)... I thought it was 19, but it could easily be a 24... either way, too tight and you'll pinch the o-ring on the tube; too loose and the o-ring won't seal. Either way, it'll leak fuel.
Thanks for the correction Diesel Nut.
I suggest using a crowsfoot and a torque wrench. Be sure to account for the extra length that will be added by the crowsfoot.
I think we're talking about the same part... at least i hope so. The tube that connects the injector body to the VP line is connected with a single nut (if memory serves)... I thought it was 19, but it could easily be a 24... either way, too tight and you'll pinch the o-ring on the tube; too loose and the o-ring won't seal. Either way, it'll leak fuel.
Thanks for the correction Diesel Nut.
I suggest using a crowsfoot and a torque wrench. Be sure to account for the extra length that will be added by the crowsfoot.
#7
You've obviously done it more recently than I have!
I think we're talking about the same part... at least i hope so. The tube that connects the injector body to the VP line is connected with a single nut (if memory serves)... I thought it was 19, but it could easily be a 24... either way, too tight and you'll pinch the o-ring on the tube; too loose and the o-ring won't seal. Either way, it'll leak fuel.
Thanks for the correction Diesel Nut.
I suggest using a crowsfoot and a torque wrench. Be sure to account for the extra length that will be added by the crowsfoot.
I think we're talking about the same part... at least i hope so. The tube that connects the injector body to the VP line is connected with a single nut (if memory serves)... I thought it was 19, but it could easily be a 24... either way, too tight and you'll pinch the o-ring on the tube; too loose and the o-ring won't seal. Either way, it'll leak fuel.
Thanks for the correction Diesel Nut.
I suggest using a crowsfoot and a torque wrench. Be sure to account for the extra length that will be added by the crowsfoot.
#8
#10
The following users liked this post:
cummincrazy (02-05-2008)