Electrical Problems Still
#1
Electrical Problems Still
We are still having electric problems with our truck. I checked with a meter, 12.93v of draw with everything shut off. This how I did it let me know if procdure was wrong.
Pulled the positive cable off the pass. side batt, pulled the positive cable from the driver side batt. Used a meter set to read volts on the driver side battery, one cable conected too the batter and one conected too the battery cable. Pulled every fuse and relay one by one to try to find the system with the problem. No change ever. Didnt pull air bag fuses for obvious reasons.
Any ideas where too look?
Pulled the positive cable off the pass. side batt, pulled the positive cable from the driver side batt. Used a meter set to read volts on the driver side battery, one cable conected too the batter and one conected too the battery cable. Pulled every fuse and relay one by one to try to find the system with the problem. No change ever. Didnt pull air bag fuses for obvious reasons.
Any ideas where too look?
#3
DOH! But should there be a 12V draw with nothing on like that?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Nevermind dumb question......
Just realized i was basiclly checking the charge on the battery by using volts!!!
Thank god it's friday I am fried
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Nevermind dumb question......
Just realized i was basiclly checking the charge on the battery by using volts!!!
Thank god it's friday I am fried
Last edited by Captn_tyler; 08-20-2010 at 12:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#4
#5
Okay here where we stand.
After an hour trying to figure out the fuse in the stupid meter i got some results.
0.01 AMP is a constaint draw.
Flipped on the dome light 3.0 AMP draw
Flipped on the key to let the LP and grid heater run 18.0 AMP draw.
Turned off key 0.25 AMP draw for approx 3 to 4 mins than back to 0.01 AMP draw.
Both batteries checked out with load tester..... Stuip thing goes dead in like day and a half.
Any input other test to try?
After an hour trying to figure out the fuse in the stupid meter i got some results.
0.01 AMP is a constaint draw.
Flipped on the dome light 3.0 AMP draw
Flipped on the key to let the LP and grid heater run 18.0 AMP draw.
Turned off key 0.25 AMP draw for approx 3 to 4 mins than back to 0.01 AMP draw.
Both batteries checked out with load tester..... Stuip thing goes dead in like day and a half.
Any input other test to try?
#9
#10