I'm new to this forum and I've read some of the posts and there's some good info here.

I have a 2001 24V HO 6 spd with about 240,000 miles. I've had it since it had 10,000 miles. I've replaced lift pumps 2 or 3 times, cam position sensor once, but I've never had this problem. I used to have a 92 and the injector pump went out and it didn't act like this.

It was running fine and then suddenly, it stalled until I let off the throttle. The check engine light came on. At first I tried giving it gas and then it died. I coasted to a store and took a look under the hood. My first thought was that maybe the serpintine belt broke off, but it was still there.

I got in and started it up but when I gave it gas, it sputtered and stalled until I let off and then it would idle fine.

Being that everyone was doing July 4th things at the time, I decided to try to get it home. I was able to drive all the way home, 8 miles, basically at idle. Even over a steep ridge but if I pressed the pedal too much it started sputtering.

I'm thinking maybe its the APPS. I hope it isn't the IP, I change my fuel filter every other oil change. I can hear my lift pump running when I turn the key. I don't have any kind of chip, just high flow intake and exhaust. I'd really like to check the codes and I'm going to try to get a reader tomorrow but I had a few questions.

I've read the posts about resetting the APPS by disconnecting the battery 30 min and doing the pedal thing. I'm going to try that. I've also read about checking voltages and Ohms. I've also read about adjusting the voltage on the APPS.

Am I on the right track?

I took the cover off the APPS to see if any linkage was messed up. I started pushing the throttle lever to see if it seemed OK. The first thing I noticed is there is a rod coming from the pedal in the cab and a steel cable going to a part under the battery on the driver's side. When I push the throttle lever like someone is pusing the pedal, the steel cable doesn't move any. It just slides freely through the hole in the lever. Is it supposed to be that way.

What is the part under the battery that the steel cable goes to? What does it do? Is there any sense in taking out the battery and battery bracket to have a look at the part under there? I wondered if there was some kind of spring or something in that part that made that steel cable move when the throttle lever moves.

After messing with the throttle lever, with the engine off, now its not starting. I didn't put the cover back on the APPS. Does it have to be on before it will start? It was cranking but not starting. I had just driven it 8 miles in that condition. It didn't die, I shut off with the key. All I did was take off that APPS cover and jiggle the cables and lever around some. Nothing with force.

You know, this kind of crap just comes in waves. BIG waves. I was fixing my boat where it had a crack in fiberglass because I wanted to go fishing. Walleye are biting the best they have all summer. The gear box on my bush-hog locked up and I needed to mow. My cows busted through a fence I just put up (I used too thin barbed wire and stretched too tight) and are eating hay I'm saving for winter even though they have plenty of clover pasture to eat (that's just laziness). Now my truck won't run right. Its probably my punishment for taking pleasure in spraypainting a wasp that has stung me on the back of my neck twice in the last week when I opened the door to my shed. Geeze! Anybody got a truck, boat, bush-hog, roll of barb wire and a can of raid I can borrow for this weekend?

 

I think your on the right track with your APPS. Adjusting it isn't too difficult, just need the right tools. You could even continue to back probe the wire you are using to adjust the APPS to make sure it has a nice steady increase as you roll the linkage back and forth. Checking for dead spots essentially.
Yes, that is your cruise control cable. There is a vacuum pot under the battery pulling on that cable. If it wasn't slotted, the vacuum pot would be moving every time the accelerator pedal does.
There is a 6 pin connector for the wiring to the APPS, located on the bottom side of the assembly. You could remove it to see if any wires or pins are damaged.

 

Someone told me how to get the code by cycling the ignition.

P1693

What's that?

 

It's a "companion" code. Likely generated by the PCM, and it essentially means the PCM is aware of a ECM problem. It could be leftover from a previous incident, or there is another code you have not found yet.

 

I just pulled off the connector by the engine to the computor and checked pin 23.

Had .48V.

Took off the APPS and it said .468V.

Checked it again and it had .47V.

Does that mean my APPS is OK and something else has gone bad...like the IP?

The check engine light went off and I put everything back and started the truck.

Now it idles rough where it was idling smooth before. Like baduck, baduck, baduck, baduck!! Pressing the pedal does nothing. It just idles rough now.

I didn't tighten the APPS bolts down all the way, just screwed them in a little to hold the bracket up. Could that be why its doing what its doing now? I can go tighten them and try again.

Checking the code doing the ignition 3X, I still get P1693 and nothing else.

I'm going to look on the forum again to try to find what else I can check. I saw some stuff last night about checking for opens and shorts.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

If you still have stock lift pump I bet your vp44 is dead. Stock lift pumps suc you got to get pressure to the vp. If it turns out you have 0216 code it's your vp.
If apps I would order one from Timbo, if you try to adjust it and just say you do get it going it's going to fail again. Just my 2cents

 

Lift pump is not stock. Its not a bully dog or high performance pump but it is an improved aftermarket pump. The bowl sits sideways instead of up and down like the stock pump. I hear it pumping when I turn the key, sounds good.

I just tightened the APPS bolts, removed the battery 30 min and did the pedal thing. Started it up and still getting the rough idle. The pedal does nothing.

To me, I think something's screwed up with the APPS or computer not telling it to give enough fuel. Especially because it doesn't respond at all when I press the pedal. I may be wrong, I have about 240,000 miles and I've never replaced the IP on it. The 92 I had just completely quit running and wouldn't start when the IP quit on it.

 

Have you tried probing the 23 pin and rotating the APPS through it's travel to see if it changes?

 

RA Williams,

Do you mean watch the voltage on that pin when I move the throttle or take the APPS off and try to adjust the voltage?

 

Watch the voltage at that pin with the APPS still assembled, and use your hand to slowly turn the assembly. The voltage should Increase to close to 4.5Volts at WOT position smoothly.
This may not be the issue of your rough running, but may prove your APPS condition.