24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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01.5 24v Questions

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  #1  
Old 11-28-2009, 01:04 AM
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Default 01.5 24v Questions

Let me preface this by saying that I do realize that it has been a while since I have driven a stock truck so maybe I am just off base with this but here goes......

Background.......
I have a friend who has a bone stock 01.5 24v 6 speed ride that has me stumped.The truck recently threw a injection pump death code so it was replaced with a new one.The shop doing the work uses pumps from Blue Chip Diesel and while they were doing that they also did a replacement lift pump and relocated it back on the frame(not what I would have done here but its not my truck).While it was there they also freed up a frozen turbo wastegate(it was stuck open) and cleaned the IAT sensor.The truck has 3.54 rears and rides on a 35 inch tire as its lifted 6 inches over stock.The truck is used primarly for daily driving and some local travel jaunts done by the owner.It is NOT,repeat,NOT,a performance built ride and was bought because the owner is a Dodge/Cummins person.

The issues and again,maybe its just me here......
For a lack of better words here the truck is a absolute turd to drive.It has got to be the absolute worst 24v I have EVER driven in stock form for power.You can not even drive around here locally with it as the small rolling hills cause you to drop holes in the box to even have a chance to get over them.While I do understand that a stock 24v HO truck is no real power monster I do know they should run better than this one.Mash the loud pedal and it runs to about 2gs and lays an egg and dies and does not pull hard from there to 3200.Figuring the 35" tire and 3.54's were not a good mix a set of 265's were placed on it and no change was made to how the truck responded.Its still a dead fish and makes little or no power above 2-2200 rpm's and is slow to wind up beyond that range.

Fuel pressure has been checked and is OK and there are no codes showing with a scan tool.I am leaning to thinking its TPS related but want some input from the experts here on what others think or where to start .The dealer where they got the work done is attempting to sell a TST PM3 to the owner but I have curtailed that until the truck gets sorted out first.I do not think the addition of a fueling box right now will allow the truck to make efficent use of that box if it can not make power wiothout it.The truck has just over 100k on it now and the owner is very discouraged with it.

You help and thoughts are welcome gang as I am about lost..............Andy
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:21 AM
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Only things I can think of if it is actually defueling like that is the TPS, APPS or install a boost fooler and see if that helps. I also have to wonder if the waste gate repair didn't have somethin to do with this though and is causing the truck to die like that. Maybe clamp the gate closed and see if it helps. Just control boost with your foot so you don't blow the turbo of course.

Only things I can think of right now.
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:39 AM
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Gate is blocked with a boost elbow.I am actually trying to get it to set a over-boost code but it will not spin the motor hard enough to even do that.it acts like it wants to go but when it hits that 2000 rpm wall it falls flat on its face and dies.Like I said,I am no 24v person but I know this truck should at least pull itself along enough to maintain speed.
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:59 AM
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i would check the APPS, the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor. Also get some turbo clamps from the local farm store and double clamp every intercooler hose(or spring for the nice aftermarket ones). Now my old 98 was having this issue and it ended up being a cracked fuel filter housing. The crack wasnt enough to leak fuel which is why i never caught it but it was enough to let air in. It was cracked when someone overtighten of of the two little brass plugs on the top of the housing. 01s are different so hopefully thats not the problem, but check anyway.
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:24 AM
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I know it doesn't help fix the problem but ya these 24V in stock form are not speed demons at all but I can pull 30,000 pound trailers all day long and never have issues and I turn all the toys off to do this and run at stock HP. The toys make it run to hot when I'm pullin heavy.
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:44 AM
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Just a thought here....

Would anyone know what or how the truck would drive if it had a SO VP placed on it instead of a HO VP?.

Uncle Bubba...
I know these trucks are no powerhouses which is why I may be a tad biased or tainted since mine has not been stock for so long,but,they should hold their own and not need to drop 2 holes to just go up a small hill unladen.It truely is a pig when it comes to power and to me is a hazard to drive if it can not maintain speed up a small hill unladen.

dukeboy...
Boost leaks were checked for as the entire charge air system was checked for leaks with my tester I had made for my 12v.Once the system was charged no noticable leaks or leakdown was seen on the gauge at all.The fuel filter housing is OK and has the billet top on it instead of the plastic one to prevent air seeepage issues.
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Hammer
Just a thought here....

Would anyone know what or how the truck would drive if it had a SO VP placed on it instead of a HO VP?.

It would have more power.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I would be checking the map sensor real close. I don't remember the name of it, but there is a program out there that you can run on a laptop plugged into your diagnostic port and get real time readings of all the sensors. It wasn't that expensive (worst part was the cord for the laptop)and very helpful back when I had my VP44 truck. If you can track it down, it would make diagnosing this problem relatively easy.
 

Last edited by 94Matt; 11-28-2009 at 11:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:08 PM
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Any codes?
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:34 PM
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what is a SO VP? and what is a HO VP?
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:54 PM
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Check the voltage on the APPS. Adjust as needed. AFTER that is set correctly, unhook the batteries for 1/2 hour or better with the key on (to suck the juice out of any capacitors) turn the key off, hook batts back up. Turn key to run position and push throttle slowly all the way to the floor and back up. Between getting the voltage right and resetting the APPS, should solve the biggest part of your problem. I would almost wonder if the injectors were getting coked up but if it pulls good to 2 grand then falls on its face that kind of rules that out. How much boost will it make?
 


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