Found this link the other day, waiting on some more info from them. It does give some ideas of the cause and their solution that may help prevent the 53 block cracks.Cummins 53 Crack Repair Reinforcement

 

There are a lot of mixed reviews on this - the only REAL fix is a reblock.

 

get a price on all that i looked into it awhile back they suggest 3 of them and the stiching pins run over 1000 bucks alot to spend on something that has mixed reviews

 

If you have access to the equipment and tools.... I have a fix.
3/8 plate above, along, and below the crack.

Drill and tap the block so that you can bolt the plate on. I used 7/16 - 20 bolts last year. This year I upgraded to 1/2 inch fine thread.

Lots of high temp silicone!

I did this last year and it lasted 12K miles (11 months). Started to leak a few weeks ago so I reinstalled the plate with better bolts as well as some other improvements.

It is not pretty (silicone is messy) but it works!!!!!


Lock and Stitch may be a good fix but it is very detailed and requires motor removal to do it right. The price is high!

My fix is cheap and it reduces the block from expanding which is the main cause of the leak.


Matt

 

I'm looking to use your 3/8" plate idea what other upgrades did you do to it?

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I'm looking to use your 3/8" plate idea what other additions did you do to it besides 1/2" bolts?
Thanks in advance.

 

Wash the block, lose it, tie your tarps to it,.... You will regret ever trying to fix it, I have had two 53 blocks, unless you pull or drag and intend to fill the block.... Sink it, new block
Or weld with heeaaavvy Nickle stick and heat block well, and cool slow

 

How does the nickle stick hold up? I am planning on getting a new block asap just saving up the cash but I want a repair for this cracked block that will hold up without worry and bolting the plate seems solid

 

Just saw your post regarding the 53 Block Casting, and thought I would make you aware of another effective and inexpensive opition. Are you familiar with Lock-N-Stitch? After furhter research, I see this was mentioned at the beginning of the threat. My apologies for the duplication of information. I posted the source for reference only. Good luck with it.

-------------------------
The Lock-N-Stitch Solution
The Lock-NStitch and its related fixtures allow for the repair to be done with the engine in the chassis. For access to the crack you will have to remove the turbocharger and exhaust manifold.

Sources:
A Publication of the TURBO DIESEL REGISTER (TDR)

LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts

 

nickle works well, but I wouldn't use it for anything other than stock

 

there is no permanent fix for a cracked 53, 55, or storm block.

(yes all above mentioned blocks can crack, 53 is not the only one)

the only real fix that will last is to replace the block, and change your driving habits.

firing up an ice cold engine and taking off like a bat out of hell WILL crack the block.

you have to let these things warm up before working them hard.

even if its just a 5 minute warmup...give it a chance to start warming up...if your late...drive easy on it stay out of boost as much as possible, and just take it easy till the thermostat opens, then give her hell...

if long idle times are a problem for you: get high idle enabled on your truck and buy or make a high idle fooler.

I run 3-cyl high idle for a few minutes and my truck can reach operating temp in 10 minutes...

3-cyl high idle brings my EGTs up to ~550* during the high idle.